{"id":25519,"date":"2022-09-09T20:17:28","date_gmt":"2022-09-09T11:17:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/?p=25519"},"modified":"2026-09-24T13:45:50","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T04:45:50","slug":"gs1200ss-front-maintenance-rear-maintenance","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/20220909\/everyday-events\/gs1200ss-front-maintenance-rear-maintenance","title":{"rendered":"GS1200SS Front maintenance & Rear maintenance"},"content":{"rendered":"
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It’s been over a month since we took it in…
We’ve passed the time when we should have reduced the workload, but we’re finally getting started. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We’ll proceed with what we can do. (*\u00b4\u03c9\uff40*) <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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The fork is already done, but…
After installing the Daytona 69778 clip-on handlebars, <\/a>the distance to the tank is… really close.

We’ve restricted it before, but since we’re disassembling the front, let’s do it properly! <\/p>\n\n\n\n


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Cutting parts from the angle is super easy.
We’ll attach it to the stem side like this.

“I can’t weld~” For DIYers, we actually have epoxy on hand for emergencies. *But we won’t take responsibility…
Basically, only pushing force is applied, so any adhesive method that won’t peel off under pressure will work. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Nakanishi E-MAX Revolution is incredibly convenient for detailed work. <\/a>
It’s so thin that we can usually recover from most situations with this. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ll peel back only the minimum and weld it here.
Get the ground as close as possible, and to be safe, remove the battery. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This is fine. I don’t weld everything because I also consider removing it.
It’s tough when someone says “I want to go back to stock~”.

Of course, handlebar lock is also possible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ve secured a gap of just over 10mm on each side.
We can always reduce the steering angle further, so if it’s not enough, we’ll add more.

Also, the bolt stopper that was popular back in the day just bends anyway, so we can’t recommend it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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If you’re replacing the carburettor, do you also need a high-throttle?
Actually, that’s not really the case…

If you modify the inner length of the stock throttle cable, it should work in most cases.
Maybe it’s just easier to get them as a set. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The advantage of the thin type is just that it’s thin.
In general maintenance, it’s just a hassle with few benefits.
If possible, please don’t choose this type unless there’s a specific reason.
*I’m writing about it because it comes installed from the factory. (*\u00b4\u03c9\uff40*) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The stock switch is still there, so we’ll reuse it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately, the stock throttle cable for the GS1200SS is discontinued, so we’ll recover with the Inazuma 1200 that everyone loves! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The throttle is the usual Yamaha 4FM-26240-01. <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This old guy loves the Arcan Hands JB412A00 for the Inazuma! (*\u00b4\u03c9\uff40*) <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It installed without having to adjust the inner length…
I think we should have done it this way from the start! ( \uff1b\u2200\uff1b) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The spigot is loose, so we’ll tighten it up later. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The stem shaft that boasts the longest length on the oil-cooled 1200…
Did they really want to raise the top bridge that much? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We removed the stem. The condition wasn’t surprisingly bad at all. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ll remove the races using the Park Tool RT-2. <\/a>
*By the way, the RT-2 only works on the top one.

While not universal, having various stem race removal tools on hand makes the job quicker.
Be sure to stock up on them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ll assemble with the ball race tool.

I kind of understand why they went back to tapered.
It’s probably just about production efficiency… <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ll press it in with the modified puncher.

Isn’t it tedious to press in with screws like the stock special tool?
If you can make one, please do. You can also use it for swingarm bearing pressing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

With some creativity, tools like this can transform in all sorts of ways. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Recently, we’ve been using grease that’s not NC100 but a bit lower viscosity.
I think it’s smoother. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We removed the fork… and non-cartridge forks are the best… super simple.
Old bikes are really great!
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The fork oil was clean. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ll hone the stroke section of the inner tube nicely.
Just this alone makes a huge difference in seal life… supposedly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The inner tube had 0\/100mm of bend. Phew! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Is this stock? Probably.
It’s variable, but we’ll check it within the measurable range.

It’s probably around 0.75K\/mm. This is just a rough reference. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cylinder bolts are replaced every time.
If you confirm they go in smoothly, you can trust the tightening torque. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The GS1200SS is SHOWA, so KIT43S.
We’ll seal the lip with Molycote fluorine grease.
It should achieve both smooth operation and leak resistance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This is the top cap from the CB1100RS (51450-MGC-JD1). <\/a>
Basically, all SHOWA upright 43mm forks should be the same. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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With gray anodizing marking, it just looks… nice! \u266a <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When installed, it takes on an “Oh!” kind of meaningful vibe. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ll bleed the air under vacuum and the fork is done. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We’ll replace the stem with Honda’s cool bolts.
We usually stock most neck sizes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The memories are peeling off, so we’ll just stick it.
If we really try, we might be able to pry it off… maybe. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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That’s it\u2014the front end is complete! (‘\u03c9’)\u30ce <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A P-brand GSF1200 round oil cooler.
Completely impossible to install?
We’re looking to fix this terrible hose layout somehow… <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Things that are sold often don’t fit as-is.
A single brake hose is quite risky, so you have to think carefully about what’s called “dedicated parts.”
After all, everyone’s muffler layout is different, so it shouldn’t fit anyway… <\/p>\n\n\n\n

That’s all for today! Adios! <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It’s been over a month since we took it in… We’ve passed the time when we should have reduced the workload, but we’re finally getting started. We’ll proceed with what we can do. (*\u00b4\u03c9\uff40*)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":25472,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"pochipp_cv_data":"","swell_btn_cv_data":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1924],"tags":[76,62,262,87],"class_list":["post-25519","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-everyday-events","tag-front-maintenance","tag-gs1200ss","tag-oil-cooling","tag-rear-maintenance"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25519","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=25519"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25519\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/25472"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=25519"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=25519"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=25519"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}