{"id":32570,"date":"2021-08-20T19:56:54","date_gmt":"2021-08-20T10:56:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/?p=32570"},"modified":"2026-09-24T13:45:35","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T04:45:35","slug":"vtr1000f-wp-rear-shock-replacement-coolant-oil-spark-plug","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/20210820\/everyday-events\/vtr1000f-wp-rear-shock-replacement-coolant-oil-spark-plug","title":{"rendered":"VTR1000F WP rear shock replacement, coolant, engine oil, spark plug, air filter, brake pad, and fluid exchange"},"content":{"rendered":"
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We really need to get this work done soon.

Let’s start with the rear shock replacement, which looks like it’ll be time-consuming. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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First, let me compare it to the stock unit. It’s 5mm longer in free length.
It’s quite fancy with hydraulic preload on both compression and extension. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How do I remove this? Let me search for “VTR1000F rear suspension replacement”…
Huh? Is it really that difficult?

The rear suspension is completely exposed… hmm. Hanging from above, removing the seat rails, removing the inner fender… I don’t think any of that would be necessary… <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ding dong!

Once I removed the side stand bracket, the frame stand fit right in.
Now I could lift the rear. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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One of the two side stand bolts is an extra-long M10 that goes all the way through.
Might be useful for something… <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Just to be safe, I’ll disconnect the battery terminal.
Same with the muffler bracket. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I think the KTM method might be the proper way to maintain this?
What do you think?
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