{"id":43140,"date":"2019-08-19T20:25:20","date_gmt":"2019-08-19T11:25:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/?p=43140"},"modified":"2026-09-24T13:45:14","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T04:45:14","slug":"zrx1100-stack-st700sr-installation-takegawa-fuel-gauge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/20190819\/everyday-events\/zrx1100-stack-st700sr-installation-takegawa-fuel-gauge","title":{"rendered":"ZRX1100 STACK ST700SR Installation\u2014Takegawa Fuel Gauge and More"},"content":{"rendered":"
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This is a STACK ST700SR installation. Though I’d say it’s more fabrication than installation, wouldn’t you? With this kind of work, don’t you spend more time thinking than actually making?

Labor and materials, yet people compare it to mass-produced prices\u2014that’s what makes custom work tough.
So here we go! <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
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The plan was two approaches:
Panel method
Pipe method


I tried the panel approach first, but the distance from the mounting point to the meter was awkwardly spaced\u2014looked terrible (subjective opinion).

The panel became scrap immediately, and I switched to the “pipe method.”

With custom work, keeping things simple rather than tricky is easier on the mind and schedule, so I went with a very straightforward approach.

I bent and flattened pipe, then did a low-profile weld to create the base. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Next, I agonized over how to mount and float the meter.

How should I attach it to the base?
Panel
Plate
Clamp
I came up with three options.

I decided the meter should look like it’s floating with clean, simple mounting, so I chose the “clamp.”

This C-shaped plus convex plate spot-welded together\u2014it’s easy, flexible, and reusable. Three benefits rolled into one. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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I welded the pedestal and reinforcement to the base I made earlier, and the pedestal assembly is complete. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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There we have it. First… <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The STACK speed sensor can be picked up from iron.

From my experience installing speedometers:

Front wheel mounting\u2014wiring looks bad and serviceability is poor.
Rear wheel\u2014wiring looks bad, serviceability is poor, and you have to account for chain adjustment. If you mount it to a support, there’s a risk of damaging the sensor when removing the wheel.

So when possible, I’ve been picking up the signal from the front sprocket lately. (I haven’t installed that many meters, and it’s not something I welcome as a job, so I usually decline.)
Good serviceability
Good appearance (clean wiring)
Less risk of sensor damage during maintenance
More pulses captured\u2014smoother needle movement and fewer errors

If someone wants to change the final drive ratio, I’d use an elongated hole design. Or you could decide first, then install.

I use a laser to mark where the sprocket teeth come, put a cover on it, and mark about five spots with a marker.
The goal is to find a spot that’s easy to machine and won’t cause installation problems\u2014somewhere with clearance.

When you need to drill a hole on the outside relative to an inner position, a laser is really useful, so give it a try.

Huepar 2-Line Red Laser Level\u2014Red Cross-Line Laser with Auto-Leveling, High Brightness, 130\u00b0 and 150\u00b0 Line Emission Angles, Compact. <\/a>

Something like this is plenty. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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I should use a proper tool, but I didn’t have a good one on hand, so I used the fork’s snap ring to check the front and back positions.

I’m double-checking that the five spots I marked on the outside and the position on the back are okay.


The snap ring… seems fine. Probably. That’s how we’re moving forward. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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There’s a nicely positioned plate on the back of the sprocket cover, so I drilled holes in that too.

When you want to remove plating before welding, solder flux actually works pretty well. (But you need to wash thoroughly afterward, or it’ll rust like crazy\u2014be careful.) <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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When I tried to weld the included nut, it turned out to be brass with plating. (I should’ve noticed from the weight!)

The weight was misleading, so the speed sensor is M8-P1.00. I machined an iron boss, cut threads, and welded it.

Double nuts are a pain to adjust\u2014this way is easier on me. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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I quickly coated it with gun coat. I really think gun coat is convenient\u2014I mean it sincerely.
If you’re going to paint something, I really recommend gun coat.

Single-component\u2014good shelf life
Bake to full cure\u2014saves time
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I calculated the protrusion amount\u2014very good.

Though “calculated” is a generous term\u2014I used the primitive method of pushing until it touches, then backing off. P1.00 means one millimeter per revolution. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Finally, I could install the speed sensor.

I hope you can appreciate how much subtle effort and time this takes.
The result looks clean and simple, which I think is excellent. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Now for the fabrication details. I wanted to reuse the digital thermometer (I want to see it all the time).
For the indicator: Daytona BETA Micro Indicator Black <\/a>

Lately, really good products are available at reasonable prices. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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For the fuel gauge: Takegawa Compact LCD Fuel Meter <\/a>
Since you can adjust the settings, it’s very convenient. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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More electronics means more wiring. Things to watch out for:
The meter itself should have a quick-disconnect connector (great for serviceability and appearance).
Cut long wires to appropriate lengths after confirming the layout.
Make it clear to anyone looking (it’ll be easier on you later and on others too).

The finished result looks simple, but it’s surprisingly tedious.

There’s no wiring diagram, so I referenced a different Kawasaki model.
Cutting corners always comes back to bite you\u2014that’s a lesson worth remembering. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The process for the brackets is: remove weld discoloration with electrolytic polishing, roughen the surface with shot blasting, then apply gun coat. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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And here’s the finished result.
The push button is temporary for now (I want to integrate it into the left switch’s high-beam function eventually).
The rotary switch is only for settings, so it’s temporarily fixed for now (I’ll remove it later).

The digital thermometer is tilted, but it’s flexible, so don’t worry. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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On the right: Fuel gauge: <\/em> Takegawa Compact LCD Fuel Meter <\/a> and ETC antenna <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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On the left: Daytona BETA Micro Indicator Black <\/a> and Yoshimura PRO-GRESS Meter
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The meter has a double floating mount (strong). <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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I installed a GPS app to check the meter’s accuracy. Assuming GPS is correct, after a little adjustment, they’re pretty much the same. It should be fine.
Fine-tuning will happen while riding. That wraps up this work. (\u00b4\u0414\uff40)=3 Phew

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