{"id":46547,"date":"2018-10-26T17:15:18","date_gmt":"2018-10-26T08:15:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/?p=46547"},"modified":"2026-09-24T13:45:04","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T04:45:04","slug":"gsf1200-front-end-repair","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/20181026\/everyday-events\/gsf1200-front-end-repair","title":{"rendered":"\u2461 GSF1200 Front end repair"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\nWe have various tools for removal and installation. (To reduce risk.)<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

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\nThe wheel, disk, and fender all said goodbye.<\/p>\n

We’re proceeding with a used wheel. (Cheaper Suzuki than repair.)<\/p>\n

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\nMEZ M5 tires with plenty of tread that we were thinking of throwing away\u2014we’re giving them to you.<\/p>\n

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\nUsed fork. We’ll change the fork oil for you.<\/p>\n

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\nAfter that, we bleed the air and adjust the oil level, and we’re done.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nThis is also used. The seal is peeling off, so we’ll replace the bearings too.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nWhen you apply rust preventative oil and wipe it down thoroughly like this, the rust prevention effect improves somewhat.<\/p>\n

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\nThe stopper on the left side of the image is peeling up a bit.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nThe induction heating machine\u2014definitely a contender for this year’s best purchase ranking.
\nIt’s not exactly instant, but it gets hot without using fire and pinpoints the heat, so it’s really convenient.<\/p>\n

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\nThen we pull hard and the repair is complete. We paint it afterward.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nOnce we press in the race, we do a visual check one-two.<\/p>\n

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\nBefore pressing into the stem, it’s good to check how well the seal works.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nDepending on the model, some units work surprisingly well. Once the seal contact develops, it goes from loose to tight. We do this so you don’t get stuck wondering why.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nIf we’re unlucky and damage it during wheel assembly, the speedometer gear seal dies. We’ve straightened out the bend.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nThe light isn’t original. When the wiring hole is small or few, it’s better to make more. Forcing it equals easy breakage equals trouble midway equals problems.<\/p>\n

Chamfer it excessively and cover it for perfection.<\/p>\n

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\nWhile replacing the handlebar, we made an ETC bracket without a stand.
\nCenter extraction that can’t be made from a single piece.<\/p>\n

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\nIt can be installed in a subtle position.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nWe prefer to avoid co-tightening on the handlebar post.<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"
\nThe meter is better placed near the meter.<\/p>\n

The handlebar is also replaced and sits lower.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"
\nWhen we quoted the original levers, it was over 4,000 yen.
\nWouldn’t some Chinese adjustable ones be better?<\/p>\n

We combined the broken lever and a junk lever into one and reused it. Of course, we filed and fitted it.<\/p>\n

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\nThere are various other things, but it’s become a nice naked bike.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nI was thinking of taking it for a test ride… wait… the turn signals aren’t working.
\nThe hazard works, so it’s the switch.<\/p>\n

The solder inside had popped off. Case closed! All done.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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