{"id":49356,"date":"2018-02-18T19:39:18","date_gmt":"2018-02-18T10:39:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/?p=49356"},"modified":"2026-09-24T13:45:09","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T04:45:09","slug":"gsxr1100k-inspection-front-rear-maintenance-carburetor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/20180218\/everyday-events\/gsxr1100k-inspection-front-rear-maintenance-carburetor","title":{"rendered":"\u2464GSX-R1100K Inspection, Front & Rear Maintenance, Carburetor Maintenance, Main Harness Replacement, Sunstar Disc and More"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\nWork is progressing, but the blog is falling behind. It’s hard to keep up with the balance. <\/div>\n
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\nThank you for all the requests. We’ll also handle oil-cooled maintenance. First, we remove the generator. With open-type batteries on oil-cooled bikes, the connectors are usually melted. If you buy a used one, it’s worth checking right away. In this condition, human strength won’t get it off. Once it starts melting, it just keeps getting worse.<\/p>\n

Always replace with a connector of the same shape.<\/p>\n

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\nThe starter motor O-ring is pretty much what you’d expect for the year.<\/p>\n

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\nAfter this much time has passed, it’s definitely gotten stiff. Just replacing the generator gear damper will quiet the engine down a bit.<\/p>\n

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\nThe gear tooth count (outer diameter) differs even among oil-cooled models, so always check before using parts from another bike.<\/p>\n

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\nDisassembly is labor-intensive, so we polish it from the outside with a wire brush. That alone brings it back to life quite a bit.<\/p>\n

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\nA quick detour here. There’s a slight seep from the release. And is the release one with the appearance up to J? Plus the chain is hitting it and it’s rattling.
\nWe have a used one lying around the shop, so we’ll overhaul it and swap it in.<\/p>\n

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\nFirst, we polish the used one to make the cylinder smooth and slippery. (About 5 minutes)<\/p>\n

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\nWe also polish the piston and install a new cup.<\/p>\n

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\nThen we apply CCI metal rubber, assemble it, and stroke it dozens of times to break it in and we’re done. This clears things right up. (After collecting the cup seal fee, the rest is on us.)<\/p>\n

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\nExtra service for photo purposes. While we’re at it.
\nExplanation of shift seal and oil window replacement for oil-cooled VR2 maintenance.<\/p>\n

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\nThe shift oil seal occasionally leaks. It’s getting to be a tough spot for the year.<\/p>\n

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\nThere was no leak this time, but it’s already stiff. It was in a condition where a leak could happen anytime.<\/p>\n

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\nReplace the seal and apply thread compound to the shift shaft\u2014it becomes so stuck you can’t remove it without wiping, which provides rust protection.<\/p>\n

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\nOil sight window replacement. Lined up side by side, the condition is obvious.<\/p>\n

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\nOil degradation condition. The clarity after replacement is crystal clear and feels great. Maybe once every 10 years? If you buy one, it’s worth replacing it once.<\/p>\n

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\nEngine damper is what you’d expect for the year.<\/p>\n

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\nWe use the later damper, of course. The damper has threads cut into it, reducing parts count\u2014perfect. Apply grease to the damper for smooth insertion, and the gentle touch prevents the case side from wearing down during vibration.<\/p>\n

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