{"id":55185,"date":"2016-10-05T20:57:45","date_gmt":"2016-10-05T11:57:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/?p=55185"},"modified":"2026-09-24T13:44:48","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T04:44:48","slug":"gsxr750-gr71f-chassis-total-maintenance-other","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.decoboco.info\/en\/20161005\/everyday-events\/gsxr750-gr71f-chassis-total-maintenance-other","title":{"rendered":"GSX-R750 GR71F Chassis Total Maintenance and Other"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"dsc_1957\"
\nToday we’ll be servicing the swingarm and linkage area.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"p1620831\"
\nUsing our standard under-tube stand gives excellent maintenance access.
\nWithout a chain block on the ceiling like we have here, this is the only option.<\/p>\n

Width and height are completely adjustable. I hope stand makers will start selling something like this.<\/p>\n

\"p1620830\"
\nThe dirt is pretty light. The mileage might be from actual riding.<\/p>\n

\"p1620832\" \"p1620833\"
\nFor its year, the condition is relatively good.<\/p>\n

\"p1620834\"
\nThe chain slider wear is also minimal.<\/p>\n

\"p1620835\" \"p1620838\" \"p1620837\" \"p1620836\"
\nThe grease has become sticky, but having it versus not having it makes a huge difference.
\nThe rust prevention effect improves dramatically.<\/p>\n

\"p1620839\"
\nA discontinued Suzuki puller. It’s a bit awkward to use, but it makes all the difference. You definitely can’t remove something like this with a slide hammer.<\/p>\n

If you can secure the swingarm cleanly and firmly, a slide hammer would work too.<\/p>\n

\"p1620840\"
\nIt comes right off with a soft pop! When you have the right tools, the work proceeds smart and smoothly, and you won’t be embarrassed showing the process to others.<\/p>\n

\"p1620842\"
\nIf it’s anodized, it basically won’t conduct. This one is bare.<\/p>\n

\"dsc_1960\"
\nSo let’s polish it and finish it beautifully before reassembling.<\/p>\n

\"p1620843\" \"p1620844\"
\nWe’ll pack it thoroughly with Newtech NC100 grease.<\/p>\n

\"p1620845\"
\nChecking the pivot width. If we replace parts and reassemble, performance should improve accordingly. If we fine-tune the details a bit, maybe we’ll gain about 1 percent.<\/p>\n

This is the state where the swingarm internals have entered the frame.<\/p>\n

\"p1620847\" \"p1620846\"
\nWe don’t have a shim that fits at 0.5 mm, so we’ll go with this.
\nMore recent bikes have adjustable pivot widths, which makes things easier.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Even when tightened to spec torque, quite a few bikes have play here.
\n“Lots of gaps = the frame is being squeezed inward,” which isn’t ideal. You need to watch out for this.
\nWhen you think about it, you start wondering what chain line even means.<\/p>\n

\"p1620848\" \"p1620849\"
\nWe’re replacing the bearings on the swingarm side too and packing it well with NC100.<\/p>\n

\"p1620850\" \"p1620851\"
\nWe’ll smooth out the dust seal a bit. Older bikes can be stubborn about this.
\nWe wouldn’t do this on an off-road bike that runs in mud, but on a street bike it’s no problem.<\/p>\n

\"p1620852\"
\nA new chain slider feels really nice.<\/p>\n

\"p1620855\"
\nThere was a suggestion from the shop, so we’ll check it near full stroke.<\/p>\n

\"p1620853\" \"p1620854\"
\nThere’s only about 20 mm of clearance… that won’t work. Too bad.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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