Lock nuts weren’t widespread on production vehicles until the 1980s.
Was it the cost? Did they prefer lock washers? It’s a mystery…
Back then, axle shafts and such used cotter pins (castle pins) and all that.
I hate those pins and want to remove them all, mine and everyone else’s. That’s the feeling.
Lately there’s been a bit of a trend of converting classic bike axle shaft nuts to lock nuts. If you feel the same way about it being a hassle, check this out.
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GPz550 front axle shaft M14–P1.5
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The width is about 15 mm and the flange outer diameter is 26 mm.
The hex width is 22 mm, so you’ll need a 22 mm wrench. The original GPz550 uses a 19 mm wrench, so
the tool is a bit small and the work is harder to do.
By switching to this, you can use a larger wrench, making it easier to manage tightening torque.
And since it’s a lock nut, the peace of mind improves dramatically.
With a part that costs less than 300 yen, it looks this sleek and cool.
GPz550 rear axle shaft M16–P1.5
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The width is about 16 mm and the flange outer diameter is about 30 mm.
You’ll need a 24 mm wrench. Size-wise, it looks pretty modern.
The rear looks like this.
Since the pin originally goes in, the shaft is a bit long and there’s excess.
When you use Honda OEM parts in a case like this, it looks a little cooler too.
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The shaft is M16, so you’d think it’s for 16 mm, but 16 mm is too loose.
One size down, the 14 mm version, fits perfectly and feels really nice.
The look becomes more racing-oriented too.
By the way, this pin costs 61 yen…
Front and rear lock nuts plus the pin, all under 1,000 yen.
Workability, efficiency, and appearance all improve dramatically.
Plus it’s easy on the wallet, so OEM part swaps really are fun.
