When you add up all the motorcycle parts I’ve used, it surprisingly adds up. Classic hobby problem (*´ω｀*)
*In my case, I don’t have labor costs though. . . . .
When modifying or customizing a motorcycle, if you don’t have a somewhat fixed direction in mind, things get all over the place.
For example,
if parts are similar and performance is similar, the cheaper option is better.
You wander around the internet researching and researching, and before you know it, “cheap” becomes your only selection criteria
and you end up buying mysterious used parts or Chinese knockoffs.
What do you want to do? What are you looking for? I think it helps to set some standards for yourself when choosing.
First, I think making a rough bullet-point list helps organize your thoughts.
ポチップ
Brake master is side-pull?? It’s OEM sourced
The brake master, upon closer inspection, is not a Kawasaki OEM part.
I’m using a Honda OEM part from the CB400SF.
Honda’s OEM brake master has a nicely rounded master cap design.
There are actually many varieties available—bare aluminum or black finishes.
The lever has dial adjustment functionality too, making it very user-friendly.
Also, since the mirror holder is mounted on the body side, it’s useful when you want to balance the mirror positions left and right.
Radial masters certainly have excellent feel and operability,
but lately I’ve been thinking about choosing parts that dial back performance to just what’s needed.
ポチップ
Mirrors are Yamaha OEM. Grips are Renthal
Lately I’ve matured a bit, so I don’t install things like “rock-paper-scissors mirrors” anymore.
I use Yamaha OEM mirrors on all my bikes.
OEM mirrors generally have thick shafts and floating mounts, so there’s no vibration.
The visibility is excellent and they’re easy to source, so you won’t have problems later.
This type of mirror can be adjusted in rotation direction without tools, making it very convenient.
*Only adjust clockwise.
Back in the day, bikes would fail inspection based on mirror area, but nowadays a larger mirror area lets you confirm what’s behind you just by glancing, making a huge difference in safety.
High-design mirrors are nice too,
but I prefer OEM mirrors that are reasonably safe, easy to adjust and source, and have decent styling.
I prefer motorcycle grips to be as thin as possible.
They can get a bit itchy from vibration, but I personally find thinner grips have better control, so I use Renthal.
The OEM throttle sleeve has a step, so I switched to a Daytona one and made it slightly high-throttle.
ポチップ
ETC is essential for motorcycles! Keep it as simple as possible with good serviceability
I think ETC is an indispensable item for motorcycles.
When installing, it’s easy to just slap it on, but if you keep it simple, don’t compromise the design, and maintain good serviceability, it looks great.
It’s a bit sad if the unit gets fixed to the body with double-sided tape when you disassemble the front.
If it’s secured with bolts, you can easily remove the double-sided tape.
Headlight is multi-reflector type. Glass IPF unit
I usually use Stanley (Raybrig) units, but this time I chose IPF.
Stanley (Raybrig) has a full polycarbonate face, which helps with weight reduction.
This time it’s multi-reflector, but it has a rounded lens that gives off a bit of a vintage vibe.
Being glass doesn’t reduce weight, but going multi-reflector makes the look sleeker.
Multi-reflector seems to give a sleeker, more refined appearance.
If I were to choose a full-cut lens instead, I’d probably go with a sealed beam rather than H4.
ポチップ
I went with early-model Zephyr 550 bodywork, so I switched to a TWM cap
To be honest, the machined look is way too aggressive and not my style at all.
I just chose this cap because I wanted to casually change the bodywork.
I’d prefer something simpler like a Newton design. But it probably won’t match the OEM performance.
OEM fuel caps are really well-designed—they don’t leak
and the air vent function works properly.
Balancing tank cap sealing with air venting is actually very difficult.
ポチップ
The article was not found.
