AP RACING’s brake performance
“I actually don’t like it”
When compared to Brembo and others
“very stiff”
Of course, the lever feel becomes heavy too.
*Once properly broken in, it’s a different story
It takes time to become delicious
“Brembo is delicious right away”
A little extra effort to make it as good as possible
is quietly important (*´ω｀*)
Soak the oil seal in brake fluid.
By doing this,
it becomes much easier to break in.
Pistons come in 2 types
There are thick and thin ones, so be careful
Probably, the dimensions don’t seem to be easily adaptable.
Regarding thickness,
I haven’t included a reference mark.
Please be careful (*´ω｀*)
Once broken in, it slides in “smoothly”.
After bleeding is complete,
“massaging the piston” makes it
even more effective.
From Daytona
Sintered Pad
Daytona Sintered Metal Golden Pad χ
[AP Part No.: CP2696/3696/3697/4638] 97175
It’s compatible with CP2696,
so this one works.
ポチップ
Brakes have
pad contact width variations, so be careful when doing custom conversions.
The width isn’t the same even in OEM parts;
there are “narrow and wide”
versions.
Even with SUZUKI oil-cooled models,
the old Tokico rear (2P) and new Tokico rear (1P) are different.
You always need to check carefully.
Yes! Brake is complete!
Or so I thought…
The caliper is touching the disc
Yeah, that’s what’s happening.
I’ll grind the contact area (‘Д’)
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