If you’re going to mess with the suspension on an early GR71,
why not change the face too?
I thought a few years ago that if it’s a J model, I wouldn’t have to worry about parts.
Time flies, and reality isn’t so sweet. (；∀；)
Let’s get moving!
I got nervous because the nut wouldn’t come off. (´ー｀)
The OEM nuts have microcapsule thread-locking compound on them.
This is pretty annoying. The tightness feels off, and the lock is so strong it causes problems.
The manufacturer prioritizes assembly efficiency and preventing loosening.
There may be cases where the manufacturer spec isn’t mandatory.
Basically just wiping it down.
Much more efficient than washing with parts cleaner. It’s the final job for a dirty rag.
I don’t want any more trouble down the road. (；∀；)
Just a little extra care can lower the odds of problems.
Keeping things clean might boost motivation and make things even better.
I remove the microcapsules with a wire brush.
Liquid thread-locking compound is easier to control the torque on and more reliable.
Back then it was lock nuts, thread-locking compound, and M6 bolts for anti-rotation.
Lock washers weren’t a thing until later.
If you skip the old setup and use the modern configuration, it’s simpler.
I’m removing the M6 bolt up front too. (´ー｀)
Bend it in two or more places and you’re golden! (*´ω｀*)
The shift shaft rusts easily, so extending the cable connector is subtly helpful.
Preventing rust is super important!
They wanted black, so I gave the sprocket a Guncoat. (*´ω｀*)
Turns out it’s not compatible with the 1200 series.
You can actually use the chain’s packing paper for protection! (*´ω｀*)
Fold the paper in half and cut a slit near the center. Just thread the chain through.
Please give it a try!
And that’s the chain and sprocket replacement done!
I cleaned the rear caliper.
It operates smoothly with no issues. (*´ω｀*)
I replace the pad pins, springs, and beta pins.
The wheel bearings should be fine for now.
To be continued! (*´ω｀*)
(;・∀・) Nothing special today.
ポチップ
