It’s almost May but it’s still a bit chilly, isn’t it?
The temperature swings make me worry things might go wrong. Let’s keep healthy and get through each day.
When you get a series of similar jobs, it happens, right? Here comes everyone’s favorite Z again.
The KAWASAKI on the tank looks stylish.
The various parts look pretty good, kind of like yakisoba. You never know when something might go wrong.
Plus there are an abnormally high number of Giboshi connectors—high risk of them pulling loose.
When it comes to the Z, it’s got a reputation as a grounding refugee. I’ll sort that out a bit more.
*More on that later
Whoa! M8! I get a little spooked by that. Is it just me?
Weak aluminum material is Kawasaki’s fate, I guess.
I’ll replace the starter lead wire that can be removed from the terminal.
*On the Z1, you probably can’t do it without disassembling the starter motor.
Interestingly, the GSXR1100K-L length works out just right, so I’m sourcing one.
Hmm, it’s nice and clean. If I rewire from scratch, I can make a really clean harness.
Of course, I don’t take on that kind of work for customers—I do it for my own bike though.
I use commercial products for jobs because it’s risk mitigation and lets me shift responsibility.
When tightening plastic, you always need a stepped collar or sleeve.
The image is different, but this is a leftover case.
If you put things in as you remove them, assembly later is super easy.
Some people say “I’ve got a great memory, I don’t need this,” but let’s put that brain power to better use.
Ring Star SP-3200D —I think this one is the best value.
For larger items, the Ring Star Super Pitch Deep Free Type A4 Size Easy Storage SP-3400F works well.
For your reference.
Cut it up with a shear into small pieces.
I’ll raise the stem-side stopper a bit.
I used magnetic force to hold it in place.
I’ve applied patches on both sides.
I kept it from being too restrictive. There’s a handlebar lock anyway.
I’m trying various options and considering what works best.
I want to go with Honda fuses. Will optional parts fuses fit?
Micro fuses are compact and nice, but they’re hard to remove.
By the way, this is a Honda Forza 250. 38200-KFG-010
Honda parts are great—affordable and high quality.
I’ll cut out unused sections. It’ll be slightly lighter, and if I radius the edges, it reduces the risk of the harness getting scratched.
This included rubber cover is kind of a pain. It’s hard to tell when the plug cord is seated and when it’s come loose.
If something gets moved during maintenance or handled roughly, there’s a risk it could pull out, so it’s better to reduce that risk.
I use the old Watanabe method with Sannichi 41 adhesive to bond it solid.
It won’t pull out even if you tug on it, and it’s waterproof.
*This cap isn’t bad—it’s just my preference to minimize risk.
The common wisdom is that the ZIR uses a Z1000MK2/FX1 harness.
But look what I found—Doremi has one!
I ordered one right away. The US spec thing has me curious though.
The wiring diagram is included, but it’s a bit hard to reference.
I opened it and was surprised. What’s the point of US spec? Hmm.
US spec means a lot of unnecessary stuff is installed.
I quietly closed the lid and decided not to use it.
I really needed one, so I asked PAMS to get me a Z1000MK2 harness.
Nice and simple—I like it!
*Modification is easy too!
I also picked up a universal MOSFET regulator.
Daytona headlight relays are the way to go.
I wonder why they haven’t evolved further. It’d be nice if they could handle the capacity and reduce it to a single relay.
*I’ve been thinking about making my own original light relay and have a fancy Motogadget relay sitting around unused.
I think just putting it in the dimmer would work, but it’s not very versatile.
Daytona turn signal relays are the gold standard—so reliable I stock them constantly.
Works with LEDs and hazards.
1W to 100W, that’s impressive.
The starter relay is from Honda, something like a CB1300SF.
Honestly any relay works, but I look for:
• The relay has a built-in fuse.
• It’s a connector type.
• It has claw-type floating mounting.
If you want to wire it direct, using a relay like this lets you make a clean connection. I think the wiring diagrams show how times have changed. (The Z is pretty old, right?)
【Progress】
●Old harness removal
●Other electrical components removal
●Left and right handlebar stopper welding (lock angle correction)
●Watanabe coil bracket cutting plug cord mounting
●Tail light and rear turn signal wiring
●Electrical plate in progress
More to come!
