A CR-SPL I’ve never done five times in my life. We hardly ever see one at the shop.
Since it’s in working condition, basically it’s O-ring and gasket replacement and cleaning.
The shaft has threads cut freely, so I’m keeping photos so I don’t forget.
I was relieved this area doesn’t come apart.
Four parts don’t come apart, so I’ll clean, check the passages, and dry. The spigot shows no sign of loosening, so I’ll skip it this time.
Let me smooth out the rough spots.
While I was at it, I polished the core, cover, and float chamber.
A question from the other day: does the needle valve clip have a direction? Basically I don’t think so. It’s positioned near center so either way works. It just links with the float, so unless there’s some structural contact issue, it doesn’t matter.
Check the fuel level at the float and we’re done.
Strange #2 MAJ. When I tighten it, I sense that “oh no, this feels bad” and back off.
Hmm? It’s not strange. Maybe it’s the body side that’s the problem.
Let me try swapping it with #1… it tightens firmly. When I put the bad one in #1, it’s “oh no, this is dangerous.”
Aha. The thread section is worn… no, it’s not.
Staring at it on the notepad… “something’s not right about this, is it?”
When I bend it with my finger… “it snaps.”
Looking at the cross-section, it looks like the crack has been there for a while. Only the top has a shine on the cross-section.
Nobody stocks MAJs, so it’s on hold.
The throttle cable is stiff too, so I’ll replace it.
My favorite one. Or rather, I’m using the one I had ordered for myself.
Shimano is effective for cutting cable. Bikes are basically easy to work on.
The cut is clean! Perfect.
What’s good about this cable is that you can make the length whatever you want. I think they’re usually sold in 50mm increments.
If you need a size between 800mm and 850mm, you’ll inevitably waste some.
Just 25-30mm longer can significantly affect throttle operation when turning the handlebars left and right on some bikes. It also looks “inferior.” I think it’s best to get a throttle cable that fits the current position perfectly.
Also, mid-span adjustable cables are basically better avoided.
Throttle cable adjustment is the “difference between outer and inner.”
Simply put, the adjustment stretches the outer, so the total length increases. The area under the tank gets tight too, so if you’re using one, you should check it once.
DIY cable
Advantages
• No ordering mistakes.
• Perfect, waste-free layout is possible.
• No mid-span adjustment. (Not recommended for throttle cables)
• The outer diameter might be thinner? (Unconfirmed, sorry.)
Disadvantages
• Assembly is labor-intensive.
• The carburettor-side attachment isn’t a free joint.
• If you mess up, it’s garbage.
There’s some risk involved.
The oil line is what I identified as the culprit of the heavy leak.
Sure enough, the O-ring was sticky and hard.
Azwan plugs don’t cost much, so it’s handy to buy 2-4 of each type.
For protective items like these, it’s good to have something you can use quickly and repeatedly.
Off topic, but when loading a bike onto a trailer, do you sandwich a towel for scratch protection? I think using something like camera wrap with velcro works better—it holds things securely, keeps things organized, and you can reuse it many times.
It’s beat up, so
I don’t need it, so I’m giving it away. Effective reuse dot com.
Waiting on the MAJ. Can we get it out by year-end? Just barely.
