It’s too late once the main harness fails. Once it’s discontinued, restoring the old existing harness will cost about the same. Replacing it now means you should be fine for as long as the bike is alive.
If you replace it now, you should be good for the rest of your life, don’t you think?
Check the existing layout before disassembly. The front area is finished in a way that makes you not want to touch it.
Before disassembly, let’s check the existing layout. That said, the front area really does have a finish that makes you not want to touch it.
This is the main ground. Just replacing this alone should give you plenty of benefit. The black connector at the bottom of the image handles the ground for all the wiring.
Thinking about it that way, I’d want to run another one as insurance.
When you think about it that way, from an insurance standpoint I feel like I’d want to pull one more wire just to be safe.
The new one is soft and excellent. The surface shows no corrosion either, so it’s reassuring.
The new one is soft and excellent. The surface shows no corrosion, so it’s reassuring.
I’ll tap power from the digital tachometer. The proper way is to run power and ground in parallel. Avoid creating a “Y-shape” by sharing a power multi-tap or ground terminal.
Everything suffers—serviceability, appearance, everything. The only advantage is that it’s easy to slap together.
Avoid having the power multi-tap and ground share the same fastener, which would create a “Y” configuration.
I’ll route it so there’s no strain. OEM layout is the standard, but if it’s tight, I’ll modify it.
Running things in parallel generally looks clean. Excessive cable ties look shabby and I don’t recommend them. It’s important to assemble it using as few as possible. This time I only used four.
I really dislike the metal bending tab, so I always remove and discard it. This way, attachment and removal are easy and the installation looks clean.
The shift rubber was about to tear, so I replaced it.
The shift rubber was about to tear, so I replaced it.
