Next, moving to the rear
It’s so clean that we probably don’t need to look, but just to be safe. No issues.
The axle is also in good condition.
The caliper is equally clean. That said, those old AP and Lockheed calipers really do have poor piston actuation. Maybe we shouldn’t compare them to Brembo, but that difference is probably why “the world uses Brembo.”
“Performance or design”—which do you choose? If the performance is only slightly inferior, I’d go with design.
I love Gail Speed radial brake masters. Some older customers have unfavorable things to say?
“Brakes should be Brembo, right?” we hear. Well, let me explain. Here’s why I recommend them:
• The lever pivot has a proper floating sleeve. Brembo uses bolt-and-nut fixing, so when adding aftermarket switches, you need to carefully verify operation.
• The brake switch is super compact and affordable.
• There’s a master OH kit available.
• Machined aluminum with nice anodize color and a shape like the Brembo GP master.
• The handlebar mount uses a hinge, so you can attach and detach with a single M6 bolt.
• Mirror holder and tank stay options are very extensive.
• Depending on the model, the ratio is adjustable too, and it has a nice click feel—very refined.
That’s why. I’ll be putting Gail Speed on my Z as well. The GS1000S has a Brembo master, but I’d like to swap it for Gail.
I got sidetracked, but external oiling is good, but removing and oiling is nice too in situations like this.
For the front fork, remove the dust seal (note: using a minus screwdriver is not recommended), apply fork oil to your hand, massage it along the fork, and wipe it clean—done.
Remove the stand again and oil it too—it’s nice and smooth when you get on and off the bike.
Since it’s sealed, there’s not much we can do, so we’ll spray lubricant from outside, work it back and forth, and call it good.
This is something I wouldn’t have worried about before. The Z originally uses stud bolts—dimensionally M10 thread with a 12-millimeter diameter shoulder. The middle section is floating.
It’s not really a problem, but…
There are standard 10-12-15 spacers available, so it’s better to install one.
What’s it for? For when you crash and bend something. With this setup, it bends outside the sleeve, so it might be easier to remove. One millimeter, one percent more peace of mind.
The air filter was pretty dirty. It’s great that it’s washable.
The spark plug looks pretty good.
At first glance, it’s tight.
We see a lot of Zs these days, so we stock plugs too. We’ll set the gap to Watanabe spec. When widening the gap, don’t pry between the electrode and the arch.
We cleaned and oiled the throttle and cable,
and replaced the fluid. We’ll replace the rear too, but we’ll sort out that issue next time.
Oh, and we also shortened the chain by one link.
We torque-checked all the fasteners. The head has maybe two or three spots.
Now it’s just a test ride and we’re done!
