Since the Reiwa era began, doesn’t it feel like there’s been more rain, and it’s stronger?
I sometimes think the Earth itself is angry.
With earthquakes happening so often too, maybe it’s better to get things done while we can? That’s what I’ve been thinking.
Kawasaki fuses with only three circuits—that’s the best.
Adding circuits later is a hassle, so we’ll proceed with three circuits.
We haven’t replaced the fuse yet, but this bike is 20A.
Modern starter relays basically come with a main fuse built in—so the main fuse from the fuse box gets relocated there.
Benefits:
● Nearly identical form factor with main fuse included
● Usually rubber-floating
● Connection is via connector
● After the main fuse, two constant-on circuits (one for main key, the other free for direct battery)
The branch from the battery terminal is two circuits: one for the regulator and one for the direct battery relay fuse box.
The leftover ones—please insulate them.
I always wonder why they exist in the first place, and what they were originally meant for. I end up researching it every time.
Peach, brown, black/yellow 3P connector = current limiter
Gray, green, white 3P connector = turn signal alarm
or so it seems. Phew, that’s settled.
This is a Honda fuse box.
• Two 10A are the existing setup
• 20A is for the direct battery relay
• Next is 1A for ETC
Two more slots left… (´∀｀*)ufufu
Mini flat-blade 1A fuses are hard to find. I found them, but it took some searching.
One type like this
And another type like this—two types total. This fuse box is absolutely fantastic.
Actually, getting it properly mounted is a bit of a pain. There might be better options out there.
I’m always in research mode.
Most motorcycle part instructions are hard to understand, don’t you think?
The content makes sense, but of course you have to read everything.
I think it could be made easier.
*Sometimes they’re wrong too, which is scary.
This right switch on a Z400FX—I keep wondering why the color is different, and once I start, it never ends.
I didn’t like the font size, so I redid all the labels.
My own workflow is coming together. (I switched from Tepra to P-TOUCH.)
I think P-TOUCH has stronger adhesion.
Progress:
● Old harness removal
● Other electrical components removal
● Left and right handlebar stopper welding (lock angle correction)
● Watanabe coil bracket cut, plug cord fixed
● Tail light and rear turn signal wiring
● Electrical plate in progress
● Handlebar holes drilled, left and right switches installed
● MOSFET regulator wiring
● Starter lead wire processing
● N switch/optional switch wiring
● Honda fuse box electrical installation
● IC turn signal relay electrical installation
● Starter relay connection 5/6
● Fuse wiring three circuits layout only 5/6
● Mystery wiring check 5/6
● Harness marking 5/6
