
The GSX1100SY Final Edition was hugely popular when it first came out.
Even so, there were some people who grumbled quietly about the earlier GSX1100SR.
That whole “my anniversary bike bought for speculation is losing value” thing.
That’s harsh, Suzuki! But brilliant!
Harness replacement is not currently available.


Let me quickly strip off the fairings and do a check one-two.
By the way, modern bikes sure are a pain to take apart, aren’t they?
Honestly, just removing the fairings and storing them takes a lot of effort.
Older bikes are so much easier, I think wistfully.


The regulator surprisingly isn’t burned out.
Back in the day, it was common to tap power from the fuse. Now that I think about it, even though additional electrical accessories are drawing power, the manufacturer didn’t increase the fuse rating—which means the maker’s capacity is impressive.
Wow, it’s deep!


I think it’s a curious mystery whether people who like spiral tubing and people who like gel tubing are in the same category.
Is it wrapped for safety protection? I wonder what it’s really for.



The wiring layout is quite flexible, going left and right freely.
That’s the DIY wiring cliché.
I think it’s better not to start connecting things right away.
• Where you want to lay out the electrical components
• How you want to route the wiring
Think about these first, then install and lay out so you can get clean power and ground connections. I think that’s faster.
These days there’s Daytona (Daytona) motorcycle accessory power unit D-UNIT Plus (D-Unit Plus) 16075 so it’s incredibly easy.





You can’t remove the harness without taking off the carburetors, so it’s a bit of a hassle.
I’m removing it in three sections—front, middle, and rear—shifting my mindset at each point.

The GSX1100SY Final Edition’s original harness is discontinued.
However, the GSX1100SR harness is still available.
36610-493A0 Harness, wiring ¥24,800 (before tax)
There are reproductions, but I basically dislike repro harnesses.
• The instruction manual takes time to decode. (Sometimes the manual is too user-oriented?)
• The color is subtly different sometimes
• There’s always something left over
Of course, the original has no instruction manual. You just take it out and plug it in.
Whoever does it gets the same result! The wire gauge and terminal crimping have absolute reliability.
When I compared the SR and SY in the parts list,
the only difference is the left and right switches; all other components are the same.
To put it simply, it’s just whether or not there’s a hazard switch.

Inspecting and comparing the harness.
It’s always good to compare old and new to be safe.











The part shown above was identical in both specification and color.




I think if you just change this one part, you’ll be fine.
There are reproductions for sale, but I don’t think anyone actually does this.
The fun part is that it’s technically not allowed, but
• Right switch: headlight ON-P-OFF, kill, and starter
• Left switch: pass HI/LO, turn signals, horn, and modern hazard switch
Well,
It’s too much work, so let’s skip it for now. To be continued.
