This is the carbon silencer version. Please don’t mix them up.
A blade you can enjoy for longer and more easily than the original GSX1100S. The GSX1200S Inazuma 1200 oil-cooled Katana (the name is long).
In a sense, a pioneer of customizable dress-up. It feels more tightly packed than the 1100 with oil cooling added. (Does that make sense?)
We’re lubricating all the parts. Since it’s air and oil cooled, the regular maintenance content differs somewhat from the standard version.
We cleaned all three calipers. The piston return is about average.
We should replace the rear pad pins.
We replaced the brake fluid with CCI Golden Cruiser DOT4.
For those who want to go full throttle, we also stock DOT5.1 (racing grade).
We adjusted the fluid hose to a good length. (It appears it won’t reach if you remove all the extensions.)
The owner installed the D-UNIT themselves, so we removed the old custom power supply they made.
We removed it and heat-shrunk it.
Heat shrink tubing for covering. Standard Sumitube works, but heat shrink (up to 4:1 ratio) is really excellent.
There’s almost no risk of the shrink tubing bursting.
When heated, an adhesive-like substance melts out and fixes it completely.
*Note: it’s weak against organic solvents and engine oil, so be careful.
You can also use it for spade connector covers.
Depending on the application, having this heat shrink means you don’t need to buy protective covers.
And then… they wanted us to connect a digital tachometer from the spare D-UNIT.
We made an extension like this and connected it.
We labeled it with a P-TOUCH P900W.
You might wonder about Tepra, but I think P-TOUCH holds up better in motorcycle work situations.
If you stock 9mm black and yellow, you can handle pretty much anything.
Now then… about the seat open/close wire.
Hmm… I can only think of bicycle cable.
So we got a Shimano shifter cable and will try to make this as simple as possible.
We reused the original adjustment section. We drilled it out to 6mm so the cable end would fit.
Side cover side. This one doesn’t seat well. We heated an M6 bolt and pushed it in until it sizzled.
Then we had to hurry before it got buried. It seated firmly. Ideally we’d use a vent joint here, but… we didn’t want to spend time (budget) on that, so we kept it simple.
That’s how we got it connected.
You can make it over and over with bicycle shifter cable. (We’ve made the side cover cable drum.)
Since we’re using this choke knob, spring return is difficult.
If we loosened the choke knob and used a torsion spring, it might work…
We replaced the stem nut with a GS1200SS 51353-47F00.
We replaced the engine oil with Newtech NC50 10W-50.
This regulator was made from plastic sheet, they said.
Wow! That’s some serious dedication…
Now we’ll take it for a test ride and we’re done! Let’s go.
