It’s gone beyond warm and is downright hot!
I’m having trouble deciding what to wear these days (*´ω｀*)
The cam installation is complete, so I’ll check the valve timing and put the cover back on.
The cam sprocket has elongated holes, so I’ll adjust the valve timing.
Neither good nor bad “Yoshimura specified” adjustment.
I wonder if this notch theory is actually quite plausible…
Well, measuring and looking at the numbers is the most reassuring.
I’ll apply thread locker to the cam sprocket bolts!
I’ll drape a rag over it so nothing scary like “clang!” happens.
For those replacing cams on oil-cooled bikes! A must-see!
If you stick a hose in the rear oil line
oil won’t drip everywhere and you won’t need to clean up.
It’s a small thing, but “wisdom learned over the years” .
Silent chains don’t have idlers, so when you tighten them “chain skip” happens easily.
Especially with auto tensioners with springs installed.
I’m fine because I slowly push with a bolt to tighten, but
“holding it with your finger” is more reliable.
You’ll have fewer “oh no!” moments.
Check the cam chain slack (play) by cranking.
Move the crankshaft slightly back and forth to confirm the play.
Of course, the chain won’t stretch uniformly all around, so it’s important not to over-tighten.
Too much play isn’t good either (though with auto tensioners it’s almost non-existent).
The auto tensioner is all about the spring!
The structure is extremely simple.
They want to replace the slider on the head cover side too!
Hmm… I hadn’t thought about that at all.
Sure enough, it’s become stiff. The contact is minimal.
After that, I’ll apply plenty of oil and put the cover back on.
I’ve switched the head cover bolts to the usual lightweight type.
Recently it’s become limited to when the cam is installed.
I’ve cleaned up all the little collars nicely too.
The test ride is done and the invoice has been sent, so it’s complete (*´ω｀*)
(*´ω｀*)Will Yoshimura cams go up in price in the new fiscal year?
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