Bike Accessory Power “Definitive Edition” Best Daytona D-UNIT Series “How to Choose?”

20 April 2023

(´ω｀) Good morning~
Sometimes I do bikes too YO♪

Aftermarket electrical components are abundant these days?

From the vehicle body it’s impossible to extract the required number of power sources for aftermarket installation .
Think carefully

USB/ETC/Grip heater/Oil temperature gauge/Ignition system parts and more
With this many items, it’s really difficult.

Daytona’s masterpiece “D-UNIT Series”
This really made things much easier.
If you’re installing even one aftermarket electrical component

please definitely use it.

I’ll briefly explain how to choose (subjective opinion)

D-UNIT+ (ON12V×3 & Constant Power×1)
*If you’re installing a dash cam, this is it!
+ Centralized fuse management too

This is basically used when you need constant power.
(When a clock or backup is needed)
Maximum 17.5A (12V×17.5W=210W)
Considering headlights are 60W or 55W, that’s quite impressive.

“When installing a dash cam” this is the one to choose.
“If constant power isn’t needed” choosing this doesn’t make sense .
You can change the fuse capacity for 3 circuits so centralized management is also an option

“Constant power coming = battery terminal” same as

Basically, if you’re careless, it could short
“Zap!” and that’s it.
If you install it carelessly, your bike “could literally catch fire”
Be careful.

D-UNIT (Standard) (ON12V×4)
*For centralized fuse management, this is it

Eliminate the fuses from aftermarket electrical components and manage them centrally (aftermarket fuse box conversion)
For items like dash cams that don’t need constant power

You can get 4 circuits of ON12V .

And that capacity is “20A” even (12V×20A=240W)
Considering headlights are 60W or 55W, that’s quite impressive.

Remove the fuses that come with aftermarket electrical components
and change the fuse capacity on the D-UNIT side to use it “Centralized fuse management”
The wiring becomes really clean. Checking fuses is also quick ( ﾟДﾟ)

D-UNIT WR (Water Resistant)
*If you’re unsure about DIY, this is it ( ﾟДﾟ)

The usable capacity is fixed and cannot be changed like a fuse.
Instead of a fuse it uses a PTC thermistor system.

The size is extremely compact 33×46×27MM and it’s waterproof.
With this compact size you won’t have trouble finding a mounting location.
D-UNIT & D-UNIT+ solves the bottleneck all at once

Especially without centralizing fuse management, keeping them as is, and an easy-to-install item.
Expectations are high.

Trip current:
7.5A×2 circuits (Recommended current: 4A※)
5A×1 circuit (Recommended current: 2A※)

Kijima GH10 Grip Heater is about 34.8W (2.9A) at maximum
so if the grip heater works
it’s compatible with most electrical parts.

By using D-UNIT
“Positive and negative” can be connected in parallel

Aren’t you installing many things with shared grounds?
And to the battery at that.
The appearance and maintainability suffer, so please definitely use D-UNIT~