Is it time already? Final oil-cooled maintenance. The GSF1200 has really become rare these days~ (´ω｀)

So, continuing from yesterday.
Every time I think about it, don’t you ever underestimate the time it’ll take in your head?

According to my plan, this GSF was supposed to be done by this morning….
So I’m continuing with the work at full throttle (*´ω｀*)

The key to oil cooling! Replacing the engine damper

This might be the first oil-cooled maintenance in about 10 years.
We’ve sealed grease inside the engine damper, so both the damper and case side are smooth.
From my experience, it’s better to seal grease in the damper grooves.

I’ve seen cases where the crankcase was severely worn down,
so please install it smoothly when replacing.

For the front mount’s M8, run a tap through it so it goes in smoothly.

Polishing the areas that can be cleaned nicely will pay off in the future.
Engine dampers have gone up in price, but they’re still being supplied, so that’s reassuring.

If this engine damper is still used in recent models, we can feel safe,
but if not, I think we need to stock them.

Miraculously, we had the same length Honda OEM parts in stock, so we’re replacing everything.

This oil-cooled maintenance is getting a little upgrade

Both the frame side and the holes on the crankcase side have tolerances, and when you add them all up, there’s quite a bit of play.
Some of them shift while riding, so
I want to take them off and refresh them.

Bikes that have never had the engine removed have the engine mount bolts locked tight with thread locker,
so it’s quite a struggle to remove them.
I pulled out a 3/4 wrench for the first time in a while.
Rather than extending with pipes,
the tool itself doesn’t flex, so you can loosen it easily.

Since it’s never been removed, it’s in pretty rough condition. *The image on the left has been polished.
I’m planning to replace these bolts too.
It’d be nice to have some nice-looking bolts.

The upper crankcase mount has no ceiling, so gravel had accumulated like crazy.
I was shocked at how much came out.

The front mount is removable and has play.
Taking that play into account and fixing it at a position where it moves smoothly feels great.

Even new bikes sometimes have the engine misaligned,
and when replacing engine sliders, they shift and won’t fit into the bolt holes,
and I’ve seen quite a few oil-cooled bikes with damaged threads.

So it’s going in smoothly.

Checking valve clearance and cam chain

The valve clearance hasn’t shifted much.
The camshaft overall shows some scuffing, but it’s minor.
With just under 120,000 km on the odometer, we’ll use it as long as we can.

Polishing it up and refreshing it

The bolts were dull, so I’m repainting them with Gun Coat.
I wet-blasted the breather cover.
It’s not really visible, but it feels good when it’s clean.

I painted the bolts flat black.

Main earth connector tab broke and came loose

Unbelievable! This trouble happened the other day.
The engine would start and then suddenly stop during a tour.

It was towed back, and after removing the fairings and investigating, the connector tab had broken and the earth was disconnected.
It’s become an old bike where such things can happen.
So I installed a new connector.

This is the battery negative side.
I scraped it a bit after this, but it won’t deliver 100% performance like this.
I’m getting concerned about this area for the future.

I could make a new one, but the terminal shape is actually a very niche part.

I’ve synced the TMR.
I’d like to get it perfect, but there’s no end to it, so I’ll leave it at this.