Clutch is HYPER “Heavy” GSX-R1100 Check (´ω｀)

8 July 2023

The heaviness of the clutch is determined by the “clutch spring”

There are other related components, but
basically you can think of it as the weight needed to compress the spring.

Recent models with wonderful mechanisms
have something called three coil springs.

Light operation, no slipping, handles back torque and more
that’s the 21st century for you.

Anyway, let’s do a check one-two.

Heavy, won’t cut cleanly, far reach—a hellish trinity

When you test ride it, “whoooooa”
just a short ride and your wrist…
It’s also quite tough that it’s hard to get into neutral at traffic lights.

The Barnett was assembled a few years ago.

I see? I don’t think it’s clutch plate delamination, but
Barnett kits have always had “higher spring rates”
= hyper heavy feel.

The clutch manufacturer probably wants to avoid slipping
“Just to be safe, let’s bump up the spring rate too,” maybe?
*Just my guess.

You can see from the looks that “I’m strong!”

We could use a spring tester to compress and measure the rate, but…
it doesn’t produce anything, so I’ll skip that.

I’m measuring with one hand, so OEM is 1mm and Barnett is 1.2mm.

The clutch plates show no burn marks and are in good condition.
I’ll use my garbage collection that the customer threw away, or reuse it

First, I’ll install the STD spring, and if that doesn’t work, I’ll go back to OEM.

I’ll check each part and assemble it.
GSX-R1100 K through N requires a “50MM” box wrench and
a cover fixing tool, so it’s a bit niche.

Making an “L-shaped” fixture is really GOOD when tightening with a torque wrench.
*Don’t use an impact driver.

Successfully recovered normal(?) lightness (´ω｀)

Some bikes are just hard to get into neutral.
You want to get into neutral but it’s 2nd, 1st, 2nd, 1st

Just when you finally get “N” with a tap-tap, the light turns…
In cases like that, increasing the shift stroke improves operation.
*Not a universal fix.

(Top) GSX-R 1100 (Bottom) Inazuma 1200, etc.

The GSX-R has a nice aluminum arm with a 30MM pitch
which is good for racing-style operation with short strokes.

But still,
for street riding with fewer shift operations
if you want to keep it light and relaxed, increasing the stroke is an option.

Increased stroke, lighter, easier neutral engagement

I’ll give you mine for the Inazuma.

My Inazuma is extended even more, so I can operate it more relaxed.
Preferences vary, so it’s not universal.

But
when it comes to operation systems,
“I wish it were like this” you know?

By making these kinds of changes,
the bike becomes more your own.