We had plenty of time on the delivery schedule, so we put it on hold. Now we’re getting back to the work.
There was heavy contact when turning right. The owner wants us to do something about it.
After a master cylinder swap on a clip-on handlebar bike, you’d be surprised how often this happens. Some bikes end up with no handlebar lock. It’s essential to check.
Back in the day, we’d strip the threads and make a bolt. These days, spot welding and adjustment is faster.
Now it’s solid—we’ve pushed the handlebar lock right to the limit and it’s secure.
I was a bit surprised to see how the original was held in place when we took it off. To avoid trouble next time, we made a small adjustment to the rear brake return spring fixing hook.
Anyone can see this is the only place it attaches. It’s easy to remove and install, and the spring is standard. About thirty minutes of work now will make things much easier going forward.
The fuel tank cap looks fine. We’re relieved.
We use a minus screwdriver for the look and to avoid over-tightening. Please get a PB No. 5 minus screwdriver.
Sometimes we intentionally make the bolt shank longer. On a fairing bike like this, when you’re tightening bolts, it’s good to leave them loose enough that you can spin them with your fingers at first.
If you start out in this state and it suddenly slips—whoosh!—you’ll get scratches. If you wear it down to the point where that won’t happen, you’ll be safe going forward.
