One-valve, one-rocker-arm type head.
A one-of-a-kind engine.
But
since cams are hard to come by, we run into trouble all the time…
And I’ve never seen one where the cam hasn’t seized…
It used to be the most popular among GSX-Rs.
Those were the days (*´ω｀*)
The tires are from 2017. Six years went by in a flash.
Once the tread wears down, the decision will be easy…
Just reporting in.
The disc thickness is a bit on the thin side. (All three.)
Sintered metal pads are the better choice.
Everyone talks about aggression and wear differently depending on how they ride,
so it’s hard to say.
But
a bad pad-to-disc match that doesn’t bite is about the worst thing you can have.
* I’ve never seen pads that make the disc shine this much…
I cleaned up the chain.
It’s subtle, but it makes a real difference.
What’s behind what we removed is the technician’s job.
Make sure to clean the spots your hand can’t reach.
Wheel and tire runout checked out fine.
It’s hard to tell where the bearing should sit.
Yeah, I know…
By the way, bearings usually
aren’t just “swap and done.”
“New doesn’t always mean best.”
The manual is written with soft language, so it’s confusing.
Usually one side bottoms out and the other is left loose.
The thing is, you can loosen the distance collar state.
If there’s play and the bearing rattles, we push it inward,
which makes it stiffer.
It’s amazing that bearings don’t break even under those conditions.
If you take a short axle shaft like this
and bottom it out with a collar, then tighten it,
you can really feel how the bearing moves.
It’s good to assemble it in as smooth a state as possible.
* That’s why you can’t hammer the axle shaft when installing the wheel.
I painted it today just for good measure.
The axle shaft looks fine.
I wish this follow-up grease culture would go away…
And painting grease on the collar to prevent it from falling off too.
Grease tends to drip, so it’s all downside.
This DIY wiring needs attention.
It’s both dangerous and incomprehensible.
I don’t know what it’s for, but… it should be removed.
The front is in decent shape, but the rear is a bit stiff.
We’ll need to do a rear caliper and master cylinder overhaul when the time comes,
but I’m worried about parts availability… Tricky stuff.
I cleaned and lubricated the throttle area too.
It’s important to mark things so you can put them back quickly and not mix anything up.
I lubricated the levers, pedals, and speedometer cable.
I replaced the spark plugs and air filter too.
Once I adjusted the idle, it really came to life.
I adjusted the carburettor sync too.
There’s a slow seep from the head cover…
Well, eventually.
The side stand was questionable, so I filed it a bit to fix it.
We don’t want it tipping over because of the stand…
The fuses looked clean, so I reused them.
I changed the oil.
Labeling the brand on the filter with a P-TOUCH makes it easy to remember next time.
If the filler cap O-ring doesn’t have resistance, replace it.
I changed the brake fluid.
From the ease of the lever and pedal to the starting and idle stability, I think it’s recovered quite a bit.
It’s come back to life with just a few small things.
Next is a test ride and we’re done!
(‘◇’)ゞ Is the end of oil-cooled near?
ポチップ
If you’re going to buy one, get a P-TOUCH, not a Tepra!
It doesn’t leave color residue when you peel it off, and it’s resistant to chemicals and solvents.
With one of these, organizing at home is a breeze too.
ポチップ
There’s no need to force a 9.
For the GSX-R, starting with an 8 is better.
