We’ve been a bit stalled due to clutch issues.
Fortunately, we’re arranging the parts now and moving forward with the clutch stock replacement plan.
For details on the clutch, check here
We’ll continue with the other work as well~
You should pay attention to the hub damper too (*´ω｀*)
Consumable rubber parts often cause problems.
- Chain slider (probably won’t come out much)
- Hub damper
- Head cover gasket
- Engine damper
- Generator damper
- Breather vent hose
Well, you don’t have to buy them if you don’t want to…
For those planning to stick with the stock carb, “fuel petcock” and such become problematic issues…
Then there’s the speedometer cable and gears—it never ends.
It’s starting to feel like we need to buy a whole parts bike… ( ；∀；)
The sprocket is Sunstar
and the chain is DID-ZVMX in black.
With a 520 size downgrade, the sprocket would be “steel”
but if you go with 530 size, “aluminum” is definitely better.
The “lightness” and “design” really make your bike look sharp.
Both front and rear were quite worn, which was somewhat surprising.
Well, it was good timing.
When you replace it with a new hub damper,
it’s so firm that inserting the hub becomes difficult.
“Throttle ON/OFF response” and “shift shock reduction”
ultimately make the transmission gentler too.
It’s accumulated quite nicely.
Basically, we’ll handle it with wiping and cleaning (*´ω｀*)
For the counter shaft, we’ll think ahead and clean it thoroughly before
tightening it down for added peace of mind.
The shift shaft was quite rusty, so I polished it up.
An unexpected use for thread compound.
This oil is heat-resistant and doesn’t drip easily.
By coating rust-prone areas and providing rust protection, you can prevent problems.
The key is basically to prevent rust in the first place.
I remove the precoat and apply liquid or solid threadlocker.
This precoat has quite a bit of friction during tightening,
which tends to make the tightening torque ambiguous, so I basically don’t like it.
*There are various schools of thought, so feel free to choose what works for you!
Bending the lock washer in two or more places ensures safety.
The lightweight aluminum sprocket with the lightening holes looks clean.
It’s impressive that it doesn’t break despite the lightening holes…
Let’s do an overhaul on the clutch release.
I’ve smoothed the cylinder with wet blasting.
The release cup “expands” and “leaks.”
It needs to be replaced periodically.
When assembling parts that use brake fluid,
“CCI MR20 Metal Rubber” works well.
We bleed the clutch air and this work is complete.
Doing this kind of prep work makes things easier next time…
I’m truly grateful ( ；∀；)
Plug and air filter replacement.
#3 was a bit sooty,
so I tightened the plug cord and adjusted the PS.
I cleaned it up while I was at it.
Because it’s hidden, that’s exactly why we pay attention to detail…
The air duct being loose?
Unfortunately, that’s just how it is.
If the rubber were new… that’s the issue.
Finally, Makita.
Grind the chain pin with a grinder
Remove the nut with an impact wrench
Remove the cover bolts with an impact driver
That’s about it. Having no cord is really great…
Test ride is done and it’s smooth~
Now I just need to create the invoice and we’re done.
(*´ω｀*)Suzuki’s parts situation is tough…
ポチップ
ポチップ
ポチップ
