Year-end… there’s a different vibe than usual, isn’t there?
Motorcycles are the same, but health comes first. Since I’m self-employed, managing my physical condition is priority number one! I find myself thinking about how important that is.
There aren’t many courtesy visits either, so it feels strange.
Why don’t we stop that calendar distribution event… people say they don’t need them… so many copies.
The fuel hose is Mikuni OEM, which I’m loving right now.
This two-layer construction is working really well so far—Yoshimura part number 877-260-1207.
If you run a braided sleeve over the hose, it gives it a modern look and prevents chafing.
I use a quick-heat electric cutter for cutting and finishing the ends.
The original had a spring threaded through it, but that really shows its age.
Replace the throttle wire and choke cable while you’re at it.
Cleaning the throttle sleeve too should smooth things out nicely.
Once assembly is complete, start it up and synchronize the carburetors. That should be good enough.
It’s been converted to a clutch wire setup—”oh, how nostalgic!”
You could use a GSF750 or Inazuma 400, or even a reverse-import GSX750F.
The shift area feels a bit damp. Let’s keep an eye on it.
It’s the familiar Z-series style. Being a more recent design, it’s solid. The ball doesn’t fall out, so serviceability is excellent.
Let’s clean and lubricate the moving parts. It’s gotten a lot better, but the handlebar is lower and the wire is bent at 90 degrees, which isn’t ideal.
Clutch heaviness usually comes down to clutch spring tension, and that’s rarely drastically wrong.
Unless there’s some old Barnett (obsolete term?) aggressive rate spring in there…
Replace the air filter and spark plugs.
Request to replace bulbs with LED. I stock the usual Amazon stuff and sell it individually.
Only the tachometer is T10… why? That’s the end result of Suzuki’s parts-bin engineering…
It’s a tricky situation either way…
Left image is a T10 bulb.
Right image is a T10 LED.
First, the dial face has become thin and transmits light too easily, which is the main problem.
After thinking it over, I went with LED.
I bought Plastic Repair for the first time—better late than never, right?
This smell… I think I know it… I’ve smelled it before. It’s like the smell at the dentist when they’re taking an impression for a filling.
I see—maybe it’s the same thing.
So it’s a tachometer assembly… I’ll do a quick repair for now.
I made a groove and built up the surrounding area.
After using it, the result was totally different from what I expected… it took some getting used to.
Unlike the official video, gravel stuck to it regardless of how much liquid I used…
I thought it would be stickier. Well, it worked though…
Everyone, ceramic compound is also effective on plated parts.
The haze clears right up and the appearance improves.
Shiny and polished—it’s subtly satisfying.
The caliper piston operates fine. There’s a little rust starting to form on the piston.
The front is also operating fine, but there was some rust forming.
The front pads are wearing unevenly, quite a bit. They’re almost at their limit.
The brake disc thickness is also at the limit.
I also checked the generator connector.
There was a little corrosion on it.
So that’s where we are for now—it’s complete. All that’s left is a test ride!
