This is a continuation of the carburettor work.
I want to finish everything I work on as cleanly as possible.
I think that way the bike stays in good condition longer. For example, when it comes time to sell, a bike that’s quietly clean and runs well is definitely a plus. I have a feeling everyone ends up happy in the end.
I’ll clean it up and then reassemble from here. When you disassemble an OEM carburettor, quite a few parts don’t come out, which can be a real headache. The felt packing on the linkage shaft won’t come out, so you either reuse it or find a substitute.
The seals around the accelerator pump also won’t come out. If the condition is good, you can reuse them, but it looks like I’ll keep learning and checking on this for a while.
I painted the plates with Gun Coat and baked them on. They’re fine even if soaked in gasoline.
I found the long-awaited latest-type rubber float valve in an OEM carburettor. No issues with dimensions, fuel level, or stroke. *This is confidential.
I think the reliability is completely different. The rubber type fits perfectly with light pressure and stops any leaks.
After that, I check the float level on cylinders 1 through 4, adjust the actual fuel level, and we’re done.
It fires right up—feels great. The synchronization is spot-on.
It’s a pretty sharp finish. I’ll touch it up.
Running the oil temperature gauge line between the exhaust pipes isn’t really recommended. I think it’s better to route it around the sprocket cover area. *I’ve made that correction.
For the optional equipment power, it looks cleanest to take power and ground in parallel. The manual says to get constant 12V from the battery, but tapping from the main key is the shortest route. For safety, I use a keyed connector so it won’t accidentally come loose.
*Using spade connectors carelessly means “they can come loose.” And if that loose connector gets pinched around the steering and crushed, “it could short.” By stacking precautions on top of precautions like this, I think you end up with better safety and reliability.
I also checked the generator area and applied contact cleaner.
The intake manifold obviously needs to be replaced. Almost done. Just waiting on the exhaust pipe split flange.
