We’ll install a shift indicator.
Models without a vehicle speed sensor are a bit of a pain. We want to mount it cleanly so it’s not visible—that’s the rear approach.
There was a nice hollow bolt at the rear, so we rounded a lock nut, inserted it, and welded it in place.
Next, we attach a magnet to the sprocket mounting bolt and secure it with epoxy—a super analog method.
It’s cleaner when these kinds of things aren’t in the way of the maintenance workflow.
We made a sensor bracket from SUS304 using a collar, round rod, and plate.
It’s removable too. Since we’re using eccentric chain adjustment, it does shift off-center. By swapping or shifting the sensor up and down, you get incredible freedom—a slightly sneaky approach, if you will.
We’re checking with a confirmation LED to see if the signal is coming through.
Since most products basically pull from the front, we painstakingly extended it all the way to the front. We even stock 0.3 SQ wire, which surprised even us. *This was something we sourced earlier for the signal line.
Now we’re thinking about where to mount the indicator. Since a digital tachometer bracket is already installed, we want to make good use of it. We were quietly impressed when we bent the sheet metal about 180 degrees and thought, “Wow, it really doesn’t break!”
It ended up a bit tricky and clunky-looking, but there are various reasons for it, and we couldn’t make it any cleaner.
We hide it with black—that’s racing. We’re really convinced that flat black is the strongest.
The 180-degree bend and the slight bend keep the spatial relationship the same. Comparing them gives us confidence in the design, and since the object doesn’t come forward, we think it’s good.
So that’s how it turned out.
The best spot is wherever it’s easy to see while you’re sitting on it and riding.
The other day, they asked us to put a master cylinder we’d removed from a GS1200SS onto the RC30.
We said it would just bolt right on—easy—but it didn’t fit at all.
We made a bracket for it as a service.
