Let’s continue from where we left off.
We’re using a Daytona headlight relay.
It’s low-priced so the feel is what you’d expect, but the advantage is that there’s no relay on the light side.
I don’t want to mount too many parts around the headlight area.
The USB port is also Daytona. One port is enough. At 5V 2.1A it’s reliable and compact.
We’re replacing the headlight with an OEM unit. Cheap Chinese multi-reflector headlights just look disappointing when you bolt them on. If you care about your bike, you use quality parts—that’s just common sense.
This one has decent capacity, which is nice. And since it’s plastic, it’s lightweight and won’t rust.
A Ravrick unit was installed, but it’s been modified and the lens is cloudy, so we’re replacing it.
New parts feel great.
Plenty of room. This is the size you’d naturally want.
You don’t necessarily have to plug the headlight relay into the light connector. Since we have space this time, we’re just plugging it in as is.
I mounted the relay next to the fuse box. I’m not tightening plastic with metal bolts. You don’t need that much force to secure it, but cable ties would give a sloppy finish.
It’s quite bright even without the engine running.
That’s partly from the harness replacement and partly because the relay and light are new.
Before, even with the engine running it only went up to about 10,000 candlepower, but now with the engine off we’re already at 30,000. Will we break 40,000?
I just realized what the different wire colors meant—the switches were different types.
Ah, I see.
Don’t file down the switch protrusion. Suzuki uses this pin with a light press fit to hold it in place. Tightening the switch won’t secure it.
Especially on the throttle side, it could move, which is very dangerous.
Parts that need to be plugged and unplugged, like USB, should basically go on the left side. It’s easy to operate while straddling the bike, and there’s no problem when dismounting. It’s just natural when you think about how you’d actually use it.
Of course it’s panel-mounted with a waterproof cap.
A solid 5.15V.
We make sub-harnesses to branch off power and ground for each component. Basically, I think it’s better to avoid casual modifications to the main harness.
And
• No problem even if you plug something in wrong
• No problem no matter who disconnects it
• No interference with bodywork or maintenance
These things matter. I see a lot of customer DIY wiring, and I often think, ‘I’m amazed this hasn’t caught fire yet.’
When branching the sub-harness further, it’s good to offset the positions. That way, even if the insulation gets damaged somewhere, the wires won’t touch. And since they don’t overlap, the bundle stays thin.
Every step has a reason.
Basically there’s not enough ground, so we’re getting a sub-ground from the engine.
We try to avoid co-bolting to the battery as much as possible.
+ = from the starter relay side
− = from the engine
When replacing the headlight, I often see sloppy bikes that don’t have the optical axis adjustment bracket installed. The light is floating but they co-bolt it anyway? I often wonder about that.
I bent a stainless steel rod and welded a lock nut to it.
I cut out a plate, bent it, and added ribs.
There was space below, so I did lightweight lightening holes plus barring.
Lightening holes plus barring are always post-processing. With a drill, the clamp is already too tight, so it would be difficult.
I may have over-reinforced it a bit, but here’s how it turned out.
I thought we’d need an anti-rotation feature, but it turned out we didn’t. If it won’t rust, I want to show the bare metal on the bracket I made.
I think it’s stylish to paint cool brackets and braces black. Painting things black that can’t be helped otherwise feels like hiding them in the dark to cover up the mess.
Please make the pants Italian.
