Let’s install the brake hose neatly to match the motorcycle.
Just because it’s a mesh hose doesn’t mean you can force it to bend at nearly 90 degrees.
First, we’ll fabricate a plate to secure the T-FIT. If it just hangs loose, it’ll rub and get scratched all over the place. I also don’t think cable ties are adequate.
It’s not quite as clean-cut, but it’s done.
Of course, the racing stand won’t fit as-is—a shame. It’s a common story: swap in aftermarket parts and workability suffers significantly.
We’ve laid it out smartly with a gentle curve.
With clip-on handlebars, the layout is even tighter, so simple is best.
Choose fittings that let you run the line exactly where you want it.
This way, there’s no problem turning left, and it won’t interfere with throttle cable movement.
Excess length below the fitting is a sign of poor work. Keep it to just one or two threads.
We’ll fabricate a brake master cylinder tank bracket. We had a bender roughly bend some SUS304 round stock, and now we’re cutting it to size.
Skipping ahead: we welded on a machined spacer, then cleaned off the heat discoloration and polished it to a uniform finish.
The owner wanted the larger tank, but the water temperature gauge would be completely hidden and the fairing duct is in the way. Since we can’t mount it in a clean location, we’re going with the smaller one.
Turn it left
or turn it right—no problem either way.
We haven’t trimmed the excess below the fitting yet, but you’ll all start noticing this kind of waste too. The RCS master has a 90-degree nipple, so we’re converting it to straight—parts are on order and we’re holding for now.
Next: the owner wants the top box to be easy to remove and attach. He provided a tandem seat base for us to work with.
Hmm… the base material is pretty rough, as expected.
You can use this for anything. Really. The material looks clean now. That gets us motivated.
Since it seats solidly on the surface, four M6 bolts are more than enough.
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Now touring is easy.
We’re on hold until the parts arrive.
