This is an inspection and maintenance request. Since I don’t particularly enjoy opening and closing things constantly, I selected the areas that needed attention as necessary.
• Caliper cleaning 2P × 3 = 6P
• Fluid replacement 2P × 4 = 8P
• Chain cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment = 2P
• Front fork cleaning and lubrication = 1P
• Brake disc cleaning and degreasing 1P × 3 = 3P
Total: 20P.
We clean thoroughly and after lubrication, we work it in well so the oil distributes evenly.
A worn chain feels gritty to the touch and makes a loud noise.
The dirt buildup is moderate. Pad grease had been applied carefully. If applying it produces some benefit, it’s worth doing. However, if you don’t notice any effect, there’s no need to apply it. Debris accumulates around the piston like this. And I’ve rarely heard of motorcycle manufacturers specifying that pad grease should be applied to vehicles.
Caliper cleaning is quick. We wash the entire circumference at once with hot water and a large brush.
We clean with large, medium, and small round brushes, including the disc grooves. It’s extremely fast and effective. If we used a toothbrush, we’d still be at it tomorrow.
By cleaning, we save time, so we work the piston. There’s no need to be too aggressive about it. Stiffness means piston seal degradation, so even if it improves temporarily, it will get worse again soon. It’s faster and more effective to replace the seal.
Lately, I think caliper conditioning after cleaning is necessary too. A body that’s been washed and degreased is naturally prone to corrosion. We apply long-term rust preventative oil to the entire body and polish it. This should keep it in better condition for longer.
It’s unglamorous but actually quite effective work, I’d say. Quite a bit accumulates in there.
Then we degrease and we’re done.
Lift the dust seal and clean and lubricate it.
This improves rust prevention and extends the life of the plating.
If possible, also wipe the area between the top bridge and stem with a cloth containing long-term rust preventative oil. Preventing rust is what matters most.
For brake fluid, we consistently use CCI’s Golden Cruiser.
It’s an extremely stable brake fluid under various conditions. For street riding, I think customers have less hassle if we don’t go too high on the DOT rating.
