Sunstar Premium Disk & RMZ Pad Service KIT was also requested.
Depending on the caliper, T=5.5mm can be used, so please definitely consider it.
The weather has been uncertain, so I’ve been doing some cleaning and a bit of work.
This is what we have now. Since it’s a crimped type, if you use it hard in sports riding and such, there will be more distortion. I recommend something with holes open a bit more than slits.
The new one has this hatch and makes a really pleasant sound. It’s like a “shoo-shoo” biting sound.
Manual spec is 23N. I always wonder how much I should trust a torque wrench. And I suspect hardly anyone actually maintains their torque wrench.
For example: following the manual with a new bolt and the mating surface as-is, tighten with a torque wrench, and then it loosens and falls off—whose responsibility is that? It’s a troubling question.
Hand feel is important too.
Suddenly… that’s so Japanese.
New pads lately don’t get chamfered much.
Chamfering the top and bottom surfaces reduces the contact width = the disk wears in that shape = the I-shape becomes tighter than normal use. I think chamfering is effective for disks that are already worn.
Chamfering is effective for worn disks, I believe.
The inlet and outlet direction is the same. On the leading side, there’s a possibility that debris can more easily enter the pad. The outlet side sometimes gets “rough,” so maybe that’s okay?
There’s some subjectivity here, so feel free to do as you like.
Well, it’s only 0.5mm, but it does get a bit heavier. The piston retracts that much more, so the touch feels firmer. Of course, it will deliver plenty of performance for hard riding.
Even though it’s titanium, it’s still a bit short, so I’ll replace it with a Yamaha one.
It goes “shoop!” right away.
They wanted a mud guard on the back of the carburettor. I have one from my GSF, so I’ll give it to them.
It’s fixed by hooking with a pin and tab on the top surface. It needs to be easy to attach and detach.
Layout is pretty much done. The harness is straightforward too.
The headlight area is simple as well.
We might go single-seat eventually, so the layout isn’t too elaborate.
The left side can’t be helped. Rather than forcefully clamping it down with cable ties, if you just keep the routing as parallel as possible and avoid tangling, it looks clean.
The ETC mechanism works well too, so you can store dried fish or similar items.
I won’t label what each thing is for. It’s plastic, lightweight, and has plenty of capacity.
It feels like you could fit a “goo!” in there.
They used to have a tray on the upper cowl, but it’s no longer needed, so I’ll remove it.
It’s better not to tighten plastic with metal bolts. I’m sure everyone feels a bit uneasy when tightening them. And once the plastic dents or shrinks, it loosens right up and disappears.
Unusually, the mating part is M6, so it becomes a rather large push rivet.
This type tends to stick out quite a bit, so let’s cut it off.
There’s no problem with opening and closing.
Pretty much complete.
