Let’s install a compact voltmeter.
I had a hunch that black would be the preferred color, so I painted it.
Since modifications are okay, this job is relatively straightforward. There’s a rib running down the center, so we’ll tap next to it.
By the way, drilling the tap straight. Straight relative to what, exactly?
I want to drill it as straight as possible relative to the mounting surface. If you thread it through a nut and hold it with a wrench to keep it from locking up, it should come out reasonably well.
Going by feel alone isn’t a good idea, is it?
According to the instructions, if you connect it to the battery, you can get zero standby voltage, but… someone beat us to it.
There’s one thing to watch out for when drawing power from the battery: install a fuse as close to the battery as possible. The image above looks pretty good.
The section between the battery and fuse is basically unprotected. If that section happens to get damaged and grounds out, sparks will fly until the battery is completely dead.
Well, that means a fire. So you shouldn’t carelessly draw power from the battery (constant power source).
So we drew power and ground from the position light next to the headlight using a connector-on style connection.
With the engine running, we checked the battery side and
the meter side to make sure the difference was clear.
We also replaced the exhaust device wiring. The setup was quite tedious.
