Let’s continue. The seal is the usual SKF green.
I’ll take a measurement just to be sure there are no issues. I’ve never seen the spec value exceeded, but…
Removing this oil lock on the RK is a hassle. I thought about making some kind of tool for it, but I’ll do that another time due to time constraints.
The fork oil is Newtech synthetic. After bleeding the air and adjusting the oil level, the fork work is complete.
The bolts are rusty… and the disc is dirty.
I polished it and gave it a light spray.
I polished the seating surface and tapped the threads, and it came out really clean. (Getting sidetracked)
I checked the axle runout just to be safe.
I’ll clean and lubricate the speedometer gear as well.
I’ll replace the cable oil too. It looks like some rust has developed.
The chain is DID and the sprocket is Sunstar. The color is the usual gold.
It goes in the only way it can, but I check and check and check again.
When doing an OH on the linkage area, it feels great to have new bolts and nuts.
If you replace the bearings but the bolts and nuts are used, it feels like taking a bath and then putting on used underwear.
Torque rod front. Always secure it with a lock nut and beta pin. I’ve heard stories of it coming loose sometimes.
The rear caliper from the other day. It looks like new and I’m happy about it. The mounting bolts are the later-model HEX type.
The caliper bolts are also OEM-sourced flanged HEX and look really nice.
