Unusually, we have another V-MAX1200 in the shop.
The fork oil is pretty dirty—quite sharp wear there. The metal didn’t seem to be wearing that badly, but it must have seen quite a bit of mileage and time in use, huh?
Good news—both the right and left inner tubes are in fine shape.
It’s a bit hard to see, but there are some pretty nasty vertical scratches. We’ll break them in a bit, orient the good side forward, and get them working again.
Looks like a lot of people apply thread locker pretty generously. We clean it up with a tap—M14×P1.5.
It’s satisfying when it slides in smoothly.
We use SKF oil seals, so let’s check the standard size.
It’s 0.5 mm, so we can use it as is.
The sales side has it tough too—being considerate to all kinds of customers.
I assemble the joint with the seam on the left or right—it probably doesn’t make much difference, but it’s a matter of mindset.
We apply fork oil to the oil seal lip. We don’t add grease because it gets crumbly over time.
Everyone has their own way of fixing the cylinder rod, but I first stand it vertically and stroke it, then do a preliminary tightening with an impact driver on the lowest setting.
I do this because I don’t like it shifting to one side due to hole diameter or part overlap if I tighten it sideways right away. Once it’s preliminarily tightened, I clamp it in a vise and tighten it with a torque wrench for final fixing.
We blend in Neutech synthetic fork oil before use.
Measuring each part makes reuse possible. This thin-wall spring collar is long and surprisingly useful. We apply a thin coat of long-term rust preventative.
You can’t see it, but we also polish the fork cap—feels great.
After that, we bleed the air, adjust the oil level, and we’re done.
