Popular? It’s an FX1.
During inspection I thought there was no lock, and sure enough there’s no groove.
I wonder why they didn’t cut it. Lately I think passing inspection as-is is a mature approach.
Oh, effort award! Using ultra-low-profile cap bolts would have been faster. I’ll swap them out.
I’m converting the clamp-style headlight bracket back to the original.
Clamp-style is terrible for serviceability when removing the fork, so I really dislike it.
The tapered roller bearing condition is so-so. When Z models use this, removing the frame side is a bit of a hassle—it’s a bearing I really hate.
Surprisingly, it’s a lot of fiddly welding. Too weak and it won’t hold. Weld too hard and the paint peels.
That method wasn’t great, so I found an easier way.
It’s quite dented. The owner said not to worry, but it bothers me, so I’ll touch it up.
Build it up a bit, then just grind it down.
I scribed the lock position beforehand, so I just mill toward that mark.
I’d rather not use a drill or rotary tool on this area.
If there are burrs, removing them gives a cleaner finish.
Hmm, this seal could work. But the nut side needs to be stepped.
The top bridge will rise a bit too. Well, it’s just an idea.
Forgot to order the lower race—a bonehead mistake.
Can’t roll without it, so I quickly made a dummy bearing from Delrin.
The fork oil was low and very dirty.
There are some deep vertical scratches, but we’ll break them in.
I’m replacing the studs too. The FX1 doesn’t have a spec, so I tried ordering D1.
The shaft is longer and different. When I searched inventory, the usual Honda part fit perfectly—lucky!
Can’t use SKF oil seals, so I’m ordering OEM. The new Kayaba is 0.5 mm different in outer diameter.
