January bookings are now closed. Please contact us for February or later. Depending on the work requested, we will assess feasibility, so please feel free to consult with us.
D.I.D ZVM-X & Sunstar Service Kit + SUS brake hose fabrication, ELF oil change and more on request.
First, we fabricated the brake hose. Since it still uses the threaded type, it takes time.
Compression fittings have become the mainstream, and if the fitting lineup expands, we’d definitely like to adopt them at Decoboco. The factory G/R catalog has an intimidating variety of fitting types. We want to lay out all parts as smartly as possible, right?
We mixed some existing parts and added a bit of character. Kind of carbon-ish?
We want the TEE fitting securely fixed without relying on cable ties or similar.
Loose = rubbing = something wears away.
There was no way to avoid an offset, so we inserted a spacer in between. It’s annoying that this falls out every time we remove it, and if someone other than me does the maintenance, they might not understand what it is.
If you’re installing parts that aren’t original, it’s good manners—or so I think as I get older—to make it clear to anyone doing the work anywhere.
I really don’t want to touch sloppy custom bikes because they cause so many actual problems.
The master tank and bracket can be reused.
If we were to make new ones, we’d do both sides, but since it’s a bit of a hassle and adds labor, we’re reusing them.
We only used the front collar, and since the front can’t be used either, we’ve machined it into a stepped shape.
Brembo has a low nipple position, so this is where it goes.
This was changed to straight… I just noticed that now.
As specified, the switches including the grip are positioned at the edge.
Originally it was straight, but it was right at the fender edge, so we used a 90-degree fitting.
The TEE fitting is also secured. The front stand works as-is too.
The chain is always D.I.D. Of course, RK and EK are good too. After years of use, the stable quality gives us confidence.
We apply Slick Coat to areas where rust would be unwelcome. It holds up quite well, so it’s very effective for rust prevention.
Please keep the countershaft to the dowel only. (It catches a bit on the threaded part, but we wipe it off later.)
Up to J, there’s an M6 bolt lock at the center, but it’s not needed. A new nut and lock washer at two points should be fine.
Mark it with a marker so you can check for loosening later.
Detachable side stand. There was some looseness, so we replaced both the bolt and lock nut.
A quick tangent.
I’ve seen this kind of stand adapted to older bikes. I think the original design uses surface-to-surface contact for fixing.
If you weld it to a round boss and then mount the side stand surface, the load on the fixing bolt is large. Unless you hook the chin or avoid surface contact, I can’t really recommend it.
Oil: ELF MOTO4RACE 10W-60
For ELF’s 50th anniversary, Decoboco started carrying it, and it’s been quite popular and is an excellent oil.
This is Newtech’s blend chart, but without an index table like this, oil viscosity can be surprisingly hard to understand. If you can get your hands on a chart for the oil you’re using, it’s worth knowing.
TI Duplex.
It’s a very good muffler, but surprisingly, when the exhaust pipe insertion wears down, the exhaust pipe sucks in air and things don’t work well.
It leaks and sucks from the silencer too. That’s because it’s a Legend…
Aluminum flanges will loosen 100% of the time, so please check them periodically.
That’s all!
