GSX1100S inspection, Deco-mainte, and recommended oil change work order.
We lightly soak a rag with cleaning oil and wipe it down thoroughly to clean.
It’s important to feel by hand whether there’s any gritty or clicking sensation as you rotate it.
If the condition is good, it should feel smooth.
Then we apply fresh oil.
Since the wheels are clean, we protect them carefully before we proceed. (Not protecting them doesn’t mean they’re dirty or we don’t care.)
The wheel dampers are in good condition and reassuring.
The wheel bearings look good too.
The rear axle is problem-free.
The chain case should be cleaned up at times like this.
The caliper pistons are rust-free and moving without issue.
The pins and springs are dirty, so we’ll replace them.
I wondered if the oil-cooled integrated β pin might fit, but it was a near miss.
By widening the connection between the pins, it fit—might be a slight serviceability improvement.
We cleaned out the bearing hole as well.
Now to the front—cleaning and oiling the speedometer cable.
Sniff, sniff—there’s something nice about smelling the old grease.
We clean and oil the speedometer gear as far as we can access it, then reassemble.
Since it can scatter, a light application is fine.
We cleaned the bearing hole and adjusted its position.
The front axle is problem-free. At 1100cc, a 15mm diameter is pretty thin.
We also clean the inside of the fender.
Lately we don’t do much work while waiting, but I remember when customers would ask, “May I clean the back?” while we were doing tire changes or other work.
Cleaning places you can’t reach—that kind of care feels super important to me.
On older bikes with thin axles and forks, we loosen the clamps. We set the fork seating at the end before final tightening.
We clean the front the same way. No rust and everything operates smoothly.
For single-piston calipers, smooth pin-slide movement is ideal. Clean it and replace the grease with fresh—that’s the spirit.
