
Lately I’ve been doing wiring work and it’s getting tedious.
Wiring doesn’t feel like it’s progressing at all, and the sense of accomplishment when it’s done is pretty thin.
And even when I lay it out neatly, the payoff is minimal…
Well, if it were mine, I think, “Would I do it this way?” and I’m pushing forward steadily without cutting corners.

This time it’s this one.
The horn is a pain… the horn… and there are two of them. (Placement issues.)

I think this is the final form of power management for now.
This D-UNIT has three types available, but I personally think this 16075 is the best.

Daytona’s evolution lately has been so rapid… I’m somewhat amazed.
Until recently it was 2.1A, but it looks like they bumped it up slightly to 2.4A.

I’m a bit fuzzy on this, but… hasn’t it gotten smaller?
Hmm… that’s nice. With digital gadgets, the later models might always be the strongest.
I recommend Daytona brand for aftermarket USB.

Mitsuba Sankowa horn. Dual, huh… I’m going to have trouble finding space for it.

I wondered what the specs were on this, so I checked… and wow? 4A times 2 means… 8A consumption??? This is a product that absolutely requires a relay.
12V × 8A = 96W! Ninety-six watts! That’s about as much as a headlight, so that should give you an idea.
Well, since you’re not blaring it constantly, it’s probably fine most of the time.


Time passes… I’ve put the fairing on and taken it off, what, a dozen times or more?
I mounted it to what looks like the ABS unit with a set-to-fixed bracket.
The bracket I made looks bent, but… the bracket on this unit itself is bent, or rather the hole positions are off, so it took extra work to correct that.

The nice steel bracket that came included was gratefully put to use. (Easy!)


Turning the handlebars, it’s tight… putting the fairing on, it’s tight…
Ah, good.

Horn terminal pitch is pretty much the same across all manufacturers.
I set it up with a connector that’s commonly used on OEM parts. (Nobody notices… it’s subtle.)

Daytona Motorcycle Accessory Power Unit D-UNIT Plus (D-Unit Plus) 16075
This one comes with all Gibbos connectors initially, so I’m changing them all to 110-series 2P connectors.
It’s easier down the road (for me), and it also serves as insurance against accidental disconnection.


Same here, but I spent a good hour worrying about where to place it.
You might think, “Really, you’re worrying that much?” but…
• Risk of contact during installation
• Risk from wiring layout
• Risk after installation
I think it’s best to make it as hassle-free as possible and avoid problems.
So I drilled a hole in the regulator bracket, cut a tap, and made it into a stud. (It’s plated, so I skipped welding.)

It’s just this much, but… finding this spot meant putting the fairing on and taking it off so many times…
Older bikes are definitely easier…


It’s a direct-to-battery relay, so I’m getting + and – power.
Basically, I don’t like attaching things directly to the battery, so I’m doing my best to keep it simple.
+ from the starter relay
– attached to the main ground base.

That’s how it ends up nice and simple.
*One ground wire is like an ETC.

As a P-TOUCH enthusiast, I just have to label this…
I’m setting the horn to 10A on the high side. There’s also space for the navigation unit I’ll be installing next.

But this D-UNIT has a potential hazard if you’re not careful, so I want to mention it.
There’s constant power coming in. If the cover comes off and falls out, you get a “spark!”
There’s a 20A fuse installed, but it’s better if that never happens.

If you’re worried, it’s safer to use a removable cable tie.
I always keep Ohm Electric cable ties in 100/150/200 sizes in stock.

This time I fixed it to an SUS304 bracket with double-sided tape and cable ties.
It’s best to avoid double-sided mounting directly to the frame.
It’s important that parts can be removed as separate components.

The USB mounted nicely on a bar that was just right for it.
If it’s slippery, anti-slip tape works great.

The USB comes with a fuse, but since I’m using the D-UNIT, I don’t need it.
I don’t have a 3A low-profile fuse on hand right now, so I’m ordering one.
Currently waiting on the fuse.
That brings it to 99% complete.
