December is already at the 10th day…
I’ll do my best tomorrow, I’ll do my best next year… but what exactly? Don’t we sometimes ask ourselves that?
Every year I think how fast a year passes, yet
there seems to be little major change in my own spirit. Don’t you think so?
Well, first it’s corona… (*・ω・)(*-ω-)(*・ω・)(*-ω-)Yeah yeah♪
During this kind of inspection I get a bit wistful looking at the wheel size…
Front 2.75-18, rear 3.50-18…
You worry about a 0.25 rim width difference when you’re buying aftermarket wheels, right?
This rim width difference subtly affects things. (Though it’s a matter of preference.)
The odds of checking the tire manufacturing date and going “Yikes!” are pretty high. Tire prices are high too, right?
Well, moderately so.
Anyway,
this GSXR1100H’s OEM
factory tire spec is front 110/80-18, rear 150/70-18.
With a rear rim width of 3.50, tire maker recommendations would typically be 130 or 140.
But the 150 size… I can’t find old documentation, but I suspect it was similar back then too. The GPZ900R has the same kind of thing.
Maybe it really was an era when “bigger is better” on the rear?
Putting a 150/70-18 on a 3.50-18 rim makes the edge sharp and crisp, which deviates from the tire maker’s ideal profile, making the tire edge harder to use.
So what if we try a 130 or 140 size on that 3.50-18?
Even if the width works out, the height (outer diameter) becomes an issue, so it’s a bit hmm.
A 150/70-18 has an outer diameter of around 666–670 mm (per Bridgestone).
A 140/70-18 has an outer diameter of around 652–655 mm.
The difference (half the diameter) is about 7–7.5 mm, so the rear would drop noticeably.
There’s nothing we can do about the height below the axle shaft except with tire and wheel… so when you ask what happens, I’m afraid the answer is a bit of a letdown.
If the size existed, it would be interesting to try and see how it rides. I remember Michelin had a Macadam 90 (radial) in that size back in the day.
I checked the brake disc thickness, cleaned the holes, and degreased them.
The rear wheel and rim are fine, but the front tire was flat and had developed a set.
The axle shaft should be fine too. I polished the small parts and applied gun coat.
About the wheel lift stand from the other day—
using a racing stand with an axle plate-type stand moves it quite far forward.
It ended up on the racing stand, but I was able to keep the wheel position.
I won’t know for sure until I use it repeatedly, but it could be even thinner and shorter.
I’m very pleased with this convenient stand. (^^)/
I lubricated both left and right levers. The pin on the clutch side wouldn’t come out, so I left it as is without forcing it. I’ll keep it moisturized and get to it another time.
I cleaned and lubricated the throttle sleeve and accelerator cable.
I also cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted the chain.
Didn’t we do an OH on this before? The condition has gotten a bit worse. It’s borderline for now.
The rear will probably need an OH or replacement in the near future. ZRX parts fit, so we could base it on those. I did replace the pads, pins, and springs for now.
The speedometer gear has the ring groove, but the area around it is missing.
When I checked the price… it’s about 9,000 yen. For now it works, so I’ll consult with the owner.
I cleaned and lubricated the speedometer cable too. Our customers seem to never have broken cables.
I ventilated the fork and cleaned and rust-proofed the inner tubes.
It’s very important to keep metal from rusting.
The pedals have shielded bearings, so I lubricated them from the outside.
The wheel bearings should be fine.
Places the owner can’t reach are our job. Care dwells in the unseen places.
This year’s dirt, cleaned this year? Not a chance.
Even if it’s just for show, keeping things glossy improves appearance and slows deterioration.
The brake fluid is CCI Golden Cruiser DOT4.
Intake manifold replacement requested. Why didn’t they change the bolts? Suspicious. Plus the fasteners are mixed…
I recommend a 1/2 breaker bar with bits—that’s the strongest approach right now.
Yet I still made two mistakes.
I sometimes wonder about these problems that come up mid-job…
Is it a world where you get paid more for taking longer? The gap between those who can and can’t seems pretty wide. What do you think?
I believe most bolts and nuts can be removed with a chisel if you have one. It was pretty intense and I got a bit flustered…
Having backup methods (tools in your arsenal) is really important.
(Meaning worst case, you can weld the bolt and remove it.)
I cleaned the air filter. The plugs are still new, so I reused them.
I charged the battery and checked the fuses.
I lubricated the main key, brushed it, removed debris, and wiped it down.
The fuel cap and such should get rust-proofing and lubrication occasionally—the tank interior gets condensation.
I switched the engine oil to ELF MOTO4RACE this time.
I almost forgot to lubricate the side stand. After that, a test ride and we’re done.
