First things first—I needed to get a USB Type-C tester.
I searched on Amazon.
Current, voltage, accumulated current and voltage, time, power, resistance, temperature, and direction—it has everything you could ask for!
It’s not bad, but to put it simply, it won’t display anything unless there’s a connected device.
At first I was like, “Huh?” with a question mark.
Plus I didn’t have a Type-C to Type-C cable, so I ended up having to hunt for one.
Well, since I need it anyway, I think it’s worth having (‘ω’)ノ
I thought I’d change the fuse capacity on the D-UNIT+, so I pulled it out…
and it snapped off (two of them). I really wish people would use Stanley or Koito fuses. ( ；∀；)
I was trying to get the ON 12V from the D-UNIT+, so I read through the wiring diagram the owner prepared for me.
Yamaha’s wiring diagrams are incredibly hard to read—it’s tough when it’s not something anyone can understand at a glance. Investigating the tomb of Khufu Shoji Kawae style…
Honda and Suzuki are the easiest to read, I think. (Just my opinion)
So once I found Khufu, I ordered the connector. (It took some time and effort, quietly.)
According to the wiring diagram, it’s an optional power source for the immobilizer.
Sumitomo Electric 090-type HM series 4-pole M connector, terminals not included / 4P090-SMHM-M-tr
090-type Sumitomo HM/MT series non-waterproof male terminal / M090
With this, I can turn it on as-is. It’s a great time to be alive when you can look things up on the internet.
Since I mostly don’t understand it, I’m taking photos and staring at the monitor with a caliper in hand.
I was looking for something trivial.
It’s not a bullseye, but it’s close!
A Kawasaki starter grommet. 21017-017—I didn’t know something this thin and slim existed…
I’ll trim it a bit, but I’ve always felt that a cover for the positive terminal is necessary.
The lid closes properly, so you’re all set.
All done! (‘ω’)ノ
