The tedious work is the hardest part. It’s hard to get recognition for it either…
We’re making progress bit by bit. I want to finish this soon…
The customer wants a center stand installed.
It’s an option, huh…
The customer brought a spring, but… it’s oddly thin. Could this be for the side stand instead?
There’s no parts specification for the center stand spring.
I’m guessing they’re all the same, so I ordered one from the GSF/Bandit series.
Since it would be wasteful, I went ahead and replaced the side stand spring too.
And with the LED bulb, the one I wanted doesn’t fit… The rear shape is really bad, so I bent the spring back into shape and somehow got it installed…
I’ll grind away the areas that make contact.
FRP work is annoying, right? I work while the dust collector is running.
Cutting FRP is surprisingly excellent with an ultrasonic cutter.
Previously, I was using an ultrasonic cutter ZO-80, but it couldn’t handle heavy-duty use… (；∀；)
Inazuma 1200 oil-cooled Katana common issue.
You can’t aim the headlight without removing the fairing. The chin flap is a long slot, which is a pain, so I made it spring-tension style instead. It’s a racing mod that helps everyone out.
Having a headlight tester makes it easy to decide the light position and build accordingly (*^-^*)
The Katana fairing is a five-point mount.
I’m not sure if the poor panel gaps are from the fairing or the bracket, but with the spirit of “no way, absolutely not, brute force!” I’ll install it in a position where it fits gently.
Surprisingly annoying welded nuts.
I want to keep things as simple as possible…
I’ll keep things as simple as possible. I extended the flap with an add-on piece…
Installed the welded nut and it’s done.
Looks good!
This fairing’s five-point bolt mount seems pointless…
Most of it is covered by the bracket anyway, so… in modern design, you wouldn’t do this kind of mounting.
I’ll just keep it the same way.
To be continued.
