The Inazuma 1200 is gaining some popularity these days.
At Decoboco, the regular Inazuma might actually be the rarer one.
Since there’s some outsourced work, we’ll get those done first and then put it in rest mode.
First, we’ll remove the forks and swap them out for rolling spares.
It’s reassuring to cover the wheels so they don’t get scratched (*’▽’)
A Bandit fork that a customer abandoned long ago is still proving useful.
Since the caliper pitch is different, we’re leaving the caliper floating.
The customer wants the headlight rim area refreshed, so we’ll replace it.
We’ve arranged various small parts.
Since the LED won’t install properly, we’re switching to our go-to reliable NOVSIGHT H4.
When we assembled it, the bolts were way too long…
Quality control slip! I’m sensing Suzuki’s threat level.
The nut is M5 even though it should be M4. The sizes don’t match ( ﾟДﾟ)
Well, we have it in stock anyway, so it’s fine…
Well, which is correct is unclear, but that protruding length is a bit dangerous, so we’ll cut it.
When cutting M5 and smaller, we recommend these Denkou pliers.
You might think they’re all the same…
I thought so too and bought a bunch of cheap ones, and they all failed.
The reality is that cheap pliers aren’t set up to cut SUS304.
But this Knipex cuts cleanly through this thickness (by our standards).
Having one for cutting M5 and smaller is really handy.
Actually, you can’t do without it.
Knipex 9721-215B—you can get it reasonably on Amazon right now. ( ；∀；)
We’ll adjust the brake pedal position a bit more and do some minor modification to address the tricky brake switch activation adjustment.
Matte black and titanium show scratches easily, so be careful.
We’ll protect everything and proceed safely.
It’s reassuring to check how well the ball joints are seated on both shift and brake before adjusting.
Check first, check second.
Actually, a lot of people are riding around with aftermarket steps installed where the ball joint socket is way too loose. Be careful.
Lying down thinking about it… flat bar or round rod…
I decided on a slim round rod after all. It’s always this way…
SUS304 round rod is the most straightforward to machine and most flexible, so we recommend it.
Due to how the ball joint seats, we made the switch arm at the highest position.
We went pretty aggressive, so there’s plenty of room to lower it, and it can pivot a bit, so it’s flexible.
The fork oil was pretty dirty.
We organize and manage removed parts like this every time.
Ring Star Super Pitch Deep Free Type A4 Size SP-3400F
Two cases fit inside this.
Ring Star Super Pitch Clear L300×W206×H39mm with 8 Divider Plates SP-3200D
If you’re buying a parts case, this one is the best. It’s the most flexible.
Off to paint and replating we go~ (ΦωΦ) It’ll be on hold for 1-2 months. Probably…
