Yoshimura’s digital temp meter (digital temperature meter) has been slow to arrive and we’ve hit a snag.
It’s a big mistake to think that parts arrive as a matter of course these days.
You have to understand that no matter what work you’re doing, you need to gather parts beforehand.
The tank has already been de-rusted.
Of course we’re replacing the petcock too. It’s supplied as a matter of course for under 6000 yen….
16950-300-020 That’s Honda for you… the quality is different.
If you can get OEM parts, OEM is always better.
Cheap and good things basically don’t exist… or so it should be. Something is always being sacrificed…
It comes with a mesh filter, which is thoughtful.
When you pull this filter, you can see the mounting screws.
I definitely felt the pursuit of a design that doesn’t show screws from the outside.
Clean aluminum feels good.
Whether you do it or not, there’s absolutely no change in performance.
And nobody notices… my heart says Italian underwear. I’ll polish the back of the tank with Plexus.
For now, this is the most convenient one I have. Easy to get shiny ☆.
For some reason… the fuel cap won’t close….
Here we go again…
I took it apart and studied the structure… it seems I had gone too far to be able to get back.
Fixed it. Phew (*´з`)
I’ll apply silicone grease to the rubber parts.
Molycote SH44M
It doesn’t have to be this one specifically….
I just like it. The old man is into imported goods… the packaging is simple, isn’t it?
It’s clearly for bikes and cars… you know?
Yoshimura’s Progress temperature meter
There are quite a lot of electrical components like this that are hard to get when you want to buy them.
Especially during touring season it’s tough. USB stuff also has undefined delivery times as a matter of course.
Plan ahead and order your parts in advance.
Since there’s an original tap point, I’m getting it from the frame with a Giboshi connector.
Giboshi connectors are used pretty rarely.
If you use the male type, it shrinks with heat.
Since it doesn’t shift with connect/disconnect and you don’t need to buy a cover, I do it this way as usual.
If you want to insert the Giboshi connector reliably, use a thin minus screwdriver.
You can achieve reliable insertion without putting any strain on it.
It’s good manners to make it understandable to anyone who looks at it in the future.
Well, I forget too, so work that doesn’t rely on memory is important.
I’m connecting with a 110-series connector and turning it ON to the frame with a short harness-like piece.
The classic SJ4570 is super convenient.
It’s used like Velcro, but it grips and holds firmly.
It’s not super strong, but it’s more than enough to secure parts on a bike.
Think about it. You’re securing things with that soft Velcro.
It has wide applications at home, in the car, everywhere.
And the best thing about this is that it’s thin and doesn’t leave much residue.
I can’t really recommend the maximum strength version as it’s for special purposes (*’▽’)
All done!
The TMR also came back to life with minimal cleaning, so we’re calling it good this time.
I also replaced the fluid.
The plate inside is the squirt prevention I made a while back.
And that’s the completion!
