It’s still okay. It’s still okay. You know that commercial where they pour water into a cup?
I replaced the brake master and remade the brake hose the other day, running smooth and smooth.
But then…
Next thing I know, the fork is leaking…
Since the inner tube is shot, I’ll replace it at the same time.
The fairing is a bit tricky to remove, so I’m lifting it up. (Double insurance?)
I have a front stand but basically don’t use it…
Isn’t a front stand difficult to work with?
Now… I’ll remove the fork and proceed with the work.
*It’s snowing outside… somewhat concerning.
By the way, apparently it’s never been replaced in 70,000 kilometers.
Hmm, thinking about it that way, it’s pretty clean, isn’t it?
If you use an older, lower-quality fork, you’d understand…
There’s no “metal” feel.
It’s purely a moving condition of fork oil degradation.
21st-century forks are amazing!
*Apologies for the somewhat unclear meaning.
And the number of parts is incredibly small. (*’ω’*)Whee
That’s nice. I think simpler is better in everything.
I’ve darkened the color in editing to make it clearer.
The inner tube with worn plating.
“Even when measuring dimensions, surprisingly little is actually worn away” is the thing.
“The inner tube of an inverted fork always contacts the same spot”
The front should be particularly tight.
Even with an oil seal, it gradually scrapes away the plating surface.
By the way, “you can rotate the inner tube on a conventional fork” so “you can change the contact point 360 degrees to make it last longer” which has significant advantages.
Reliable genuine new parts. I think there’s almost no chance of unexpected trouble (*’ω’*)
Cylinder tightening is important.
Please use new bolts if possible. I think genuine steel is more reliable.
Recently, if oil seals are under 1,500 yen each, I go with genuine.
SKF?
SKF is a bit pricey, but with this “fluorine grease” seal, fork oil leaks have dramatically decreased in my experience.
By sealing with fluorine, “smooth, no leaks, affordable” – that’s probably how it works.
Molykote Fluorine Ultra High Performance HP-500 Grease 100g HP-500-01
The fork is now assembled…
I’ll vacuum it with a Makita and then adjust the oil level.
Vacuum isn’t really necessary, “to be more certain” if you want to think so, vacuuming is the safest bet.
Makita Cordless Vacuum Pump (Body Only/Battery and Charger Sold Separately) 18V VP180DZ
This model delivers more than sufficient performance.
Let’s clean the back of the fender with a psshhh! at times like this too.
I also replaced the bolts with steel (trivalent black) of the required strength grade.
Next is a test ride and we’re done. (The image is from before the work ( ；∀；))
(*’ω’*)Here’s what I introduced this time
ポチップ
ポチップ
