
Yamaha has aluminum water lines…
That’s impressive. This gives me peace of mind, doesn’t it?
Let me tell you about my weak points “Full fairing, water-cooled, foreign bikes”
It’s like I’m struggling with one bike like this.
I have to start by learning how to remove the fairings…
We’re making steady progress


The tires were just replaced, so that’s reassuring. Power 5.
Michelin is still the way to go.



The mileage hasn’t increased much, so the thickness is no problem.




I cleaned it up gently. Untreated is nice~

Let’s also remove and clean things like the chain puller at times like this.


Very intricate structure… the threads need to be in a clean state.
Loosen the lock nut → Pull with the center HEX (adjust)
It might strip…


The axle shaft runout is no problem.


The wheel bearing should be fine too.
The rear has a quirky design.
Two balls with needle bearings in the middle for support…
This is new, isn’t it? It’s nice that distance collar adjustment isn’t needed.


Oh~ aluminum piston! 38φ… note to self
But this Nissin rear is used in so many applications.


A little tangent.
This part is aluminum… what a luxurious era. Sigh…

They brought it in the rain, so the inside is all muddy (;∀;)
I cleaned it up for you.

The inner tube condition was good too. Reassuring.


Front caliper has aluminum piston too~
Oh, the condition is very OK.




I disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated the control systems.

The throttle was clean too.




While I had it apart, I cleaned up the pedal too.


Another tangent. To think Yamaha M8 has these lightening bolts…
And unlike Honda, they have that “whoosh” sound.
Depending on size variations and price, I’d like to stock them…
Yamaha parts have really high quality feel.
*Suzuki is cheaper but…

By fixing the nut on the back like this “Can be attached and detached with just one tool”
This is a technique worth emulating for customization too.
“When removed or when being removed” the good and bad you feel is important.


Replaced the air filter. The inside of the box smells like rotten gasoline.
That’s probably because it was laid down.


Replaced the fuse. Somehow it feels better?


Replaced the coolant and the cap too.
“NTK P541A is compatible with most domestic bikes” with this shape.
Since it’s a standard specification, as long as the shape and pressure match, anything works.
Bike shops should stock this.
With reliable NTK.


Replaced the brake fluid.

I was going to give away this cup (new) that everyone throws away…
But the M5 screw won’t come off.
So we’ll keep it as is.


The engine oil is Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10W-40, same as last time.

Once you do the work, it really feels “sharp!”
Now it’s just a test ride and we’re done (*´ω`*)
