The Z1R is actually my favorite bike.
Unfortunately, it’s not a GS1000S.
No matter how much “it’s so straight, you know~” that kind of design.
It’s really nice (*´ω｀*)
Unfortunately, I probably won’t own one in the future ( ；∀；)
I miss those old remnants.
Well, whenever I had free time, I’d be barrel rolling…
The condition is really strange.
By the way, if you have a tool called a “punch,” it’s very efficient.
The “Kamekura GP-1” and “GP-3” I still have them.
If you attach a Suzuki genuine parts molding to the tip of the tank, you’ll have peace of mind.
The paint on the tip won’t peel off as easily~
When I replaced the harness, I labeled almost all the connectors with “P-TOUCH” …
These days I can’t be bothered to do that much ( ；∀；)
The wheels are reliable JWL diecast. Before you know it, the rear 4.5-18 became the standard.
It used to be 4.00-18 that was the standard…
Because of that, the 150-size lineup is a bit tough.
The tire manufacturing dates are about the same front and rear.
These days it’s become a hard-to-find tire.
Lift the wheel with a frame stand and wrap the cover before removing it.
If you wrap it, scratches won’t form as easily and the work feels easier.
The wheel and tire runout should be fine.
I’ve adjusted the wheel bearing position.
It should spin a bit lighter now.
The axle shaft runout should be fine.
For bare metal or anodized parts,
engine conditioner works great for cleaning dirt.
*Don’t use on paint.
It’s something safe to use on carbs and engines
and stubborn dirt (brake dust/oil stains) comes right off.
*Don’t use on paint.
Just spray and wipe it off…
If you’re worried, you can finish it with parts cleaner too.
APRACING (Lockheed) type caliper piston operation is basically minimal.
It’s really rare to find a brake caliper this stiff.
The design is excellent though.
I finished it smooth with wet blasting (*´ω｀*)
It’s a small thing but feels great.
If you clean up the threads on the axle shaft before tightening,
it becomes a nice smooth feeling.
I’ve lubricated and cleaned the speedometer cable and gears.
The fork inner tube condition isn’t bad,
but the inside of the dust seal is surprisingly rusty.
Let’s keep an eye on it~
The pedals have bearings so I checked and lubricated externally.
I’ve also cleaned and lubricated the chain.
To maximize the effect of the Watanabe SP-2
“widen the plug gap”
I’ve replaced the brake fluid.
This rear integrated type has a small capacity and is difficult to work on.
I checked for seepage around the oil cooler hose.
I tightened it a bit for now! Let’s keep an eye on it.
I’ll finish it tomorrow (*´ω｀*)
( *´艸｀) Summer vacation? Keeping track of Obon?
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