Hmm? It’s a 900, not a Z1
It looks more like a KZ1000 than anything else
I was convinced it was a KZ1000 all along.
Is it carbureted or electronic?
It’s not running quite right
Currently it has a Dyna S installed
So let’s refresh the ignition system
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Battery to MF as well
When it comes to vintage bikes“YB14L-A2”
Usually this size, right?
But
the KZ900“YB10-A2”
It’s a bit shorter in height.
I made an ordering mistake
It’s best to avoid co-fastening to the battery
One additional wire is acceptable
With this much co-fastening
there’s also a risk of forgetting to attach something.
It’s better to create a separate ground co-fastening point
elsewhere.
Quite aggressive ground work, made in USA?
M8 and M10…
Well, it works fine.
The vise is quite powerful for crimping
This time’s materials are here
33860-18H11
We’ll be using this main ground!
Since it’s long, I made it fit perfectly!
The crimp on the battery terminal side is
a hard-to-find shape
Crimping 2-3 SQ together with it—I don’t have that kind of tool.
Well, a vise…
For these kinds of wires, soldering is a must! Definitely
If it comes loose, it’s the worst.
For safety, I’ll solder it properly
Then cover it with heat shrink tubing and we’re done
Make sure to polish the case side too.
Even 1% matters—solid grounding.
The mundane details are what matter most.
The plug wires from the PAM kit are the best!
The rubber cover that comes with Watanabe is
a bit…
the insertion feel is subtle, and it’s too long
“Easy to slip out” and “bad for layout”
I basically never used it
but after finding these PAMS plug wires
it’s the only choice
*Except for oil-cooled models
If you’re unsure, go with this! It’s a sure bet
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The terminals go in deep
and the layout is perfect
I installed it like this.
Labeling the coils makes
future work much easier.
Use “P-TOUCH” instead of Tepra
please.
*The color won’t rub off
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Cut off unnecessary parts with shears!
The unit is mounted inside the side cover
The image is still temporarily fastened
The unit and battery are easy to remove.
Goodbye
centrifugal governor
Thanks for everything, centrifugal governor
Mechanical advance is
no longer needed
Air gap is important
Always adjust it
If it’s too wide, the signal is hard to pick up
and it can cause problems.
Everything is pretty loose, so be careful
Let me check the advance anyway.
That said, I just rev it up in neutral
and wherever it runs best is GOOD.
Usually it ends up near the standard anyway.
For now the engine started
so we’re at a stopping point.
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