On weekends, we can barely get any work done (；∀；)
Intake and delivery are basically on “weekends and holidays.” Closed Mondays and Tuesdays… which means.
We can only work on “Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday!”
I suddenly realized this on Girls’ Day… so anyway, let’s make a little progress!
We’re replacing the oil-cooled engine damper (*´ω｀*)
We’re replacing it with a damper the owner had kept.
Currently the old type, and the one brought in is also old type? If you order according to the parts list, you’ll be correct.
If we use the K6 one, the workability would be better, but this works fine too.
The contact feels pretty evenly distributed and looks good.
It had worn down subtly (*´ω｀*)
Proper cleaning and lubrication will make the case last longer
Of course, gravel gets into the gaps, so when you remove it, it goes “crunch crunch” .
A round brush works well for scrubbing.
*I personally use a Vikan 40mm brush.
This brush is incredibly durable—I still use the one I bought first and it hasn’t worn out at all.
It’s a bit pricey, but it resists wash oil, doesn’t shed, and is wonderfully sturdy.
I think lubricating it prevents the case from wearing down as much
This damper’s machined holes get lots of gravel in them, and the engine heat makes it “piping hot”
If you seal grease in the damper before assembly, gravel won’t get in as easily,
and the case side will slide smoothly “slick!” so the case side won’t get all rough and pitted.
If you clean the M8 engine mount threads with a tap beforehand,
later you won’t have the problem of “Hmm? It won’t go in…” Doing tedious work upfront makes life easier down the road.
We’re replacing the shift oil seal too
The trick is lubrication, heat gun, and sliding hammer —one shot!
With the right tools, you won’t struggle, but without them it can be a bit tedious.
Lubrication and heating with a heat gun really work wonders, so you definitely want to do that.
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Since it’s new, when assembling, keep the shaft from going the other way
—with good lubrication, it’ll go in by hand. You don’t drive the oil seal all the way in by hammering.
We’re replacing the starter motor O-ring and polishing the seating surface
The starter motor seemed to be leaking slightly.
The starter motor is basically body-grounded, so the case is critical—make sure to polish it well with an oil stone.
The generator damper tends to deteriorate subtly
It has a similar feel to the rear wheel damper.
When new, it’s “snug,” but heat and other factors cause it to harden, and it becomes “rattly.”
When it gets rattly, you sometimes hear a subtle “rattle” from around the generator area.
Replacing it makes things a bit quieter (*´ω｀*)
That’s all for today due to time constraints. More to come (*´ω｀*)
Vikan Pipe Brush is really great stuff
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If you get the 20/40/50mm sizes, you’ll pretty much cover everything!
