
It’s gotten suddenly chilly, hasn’t it? (*´ω`*)
My mood says spring, but… When March comes around“Tax Filing”
This year there seem to be a lot of issues with politics and money at this time of year“Tax Filing! Tax Filing!”You don’t hear it as much, do you?
It’s interesting~
In cramped spaces, an “angled driver is surprisingly effective”


It’s not as cramped as all that, butyou don’t need to stick your hands in as much = your hands stay clean
Using the tools you have available and working smartly is the way to go.


After loosening and during temporary fastening, it’s “threading ONLY”.
You can’t tighten or loosen it.
Unfortunately, all the cams were seized.
















The slight knocking sound might be because the rocker arm has worn down.
Rocker arm wear can’t be adjusted with the valve clearance.
Unless you replace the cam/rocker, it will continue. But there’s no functional problem, so don’t worry.


Up close it looks pretty rough. It gets all jagged and gradually becomes a low cam.




The oil maintenance was so good that it was in very clean condition.


The spark plug is JR8B, which we’ll reuse.
I synchronized the carbs (the Bandit 1200 requires a lot of work)


There’s a lot of stuff under the tank, so I mostly work with temporary fastening. The setup is more work than the actual adjustment. I think this job is pretty unpopular…




You need to remove 3 caps that are held in with a screwdriver.*One is a vacuum hose so that’s easy
As shown in the right image, there’s barely any space to get your hand in.And even if you can remove them, you can’t put them back, and if you drop one it’s hell again.
Until you master the technique, it’s going to be tough.
Removing the carb with the air cleaner box attached


And I stuff rags in the gaps“Better safe than sorry”
This is one of the rarest bikes where synchronization is this difficult. The Mikuni BSR vacuum takeoff point isn’t great either.


Secondary air and coil just hanging loose… This is what it looks like while adjusting.
After adjustment
Remove the coil and secondary air and shift the carband that’s the flow.
This is one reason why the Bandit 1200 costs more.
Bandit 1200 Headlight Problem – Solved with PIAA




When I put the headlight tester on it, no matter what I do“the numbers won’t go up”
The LED looks bright to the eyebut with the projectorit might not be focusing the light properly.
*It didn’t used to be like this, so it’s getting frustrating year by year…
This time with thisPIAA bulb, the light output went up nicely and we passedthe inspection.
Projector headlamps are quite troublesome. It might be good to keep this halogen bulb in stock.
It’s a halogen bulb, but“please don’t use coated bulbs”the ones with a bluish coating.
They’re okay when new, but they get duller over time.It’s better to choose a regular clear one.
With halogen bulbs, the brightness that the human eye sees (the whiteness) is less important than
a real “bulb-like” brightness that the headlight tester picks up more easily.
This time it’s HB3/4, so it was hard to introduce a headlight relay and I got stuck on various things.
If you’re having headlight trouble at inspection, this is for reference for Bandit 1200 riders.


And so the test ride is complete! Now I just need to make the invoice and we’re done~
Great! Great!












