It looks cool because it seems like nothing’s been done but actually it has. And the original color scheme is just the best, right?
There’s a nostalgic SPR front fork attached… Thinking about it now, they were doing all kinds of things on production bikes back then.
When removing or installing on the frame side, make sure to lubricate well.
Aluminum frames are especially risky, so be careful. Don’t think a press fit is forever. If you insert it at an angle, you’ll damage the frame and it’ll become loose.
Aluminum frames are softer than steel, so extra care is needed. If you’re doing this work for the first time as a DIY project, you really need to be careful.
This model year has a shallow press depth, so it’s still relatively easy. But newer model years get significantly deeper. How straight, clean, and safely you can attach and detach it is what matters.
Special tools are essential! Still available? Kawasaki OEM 57001-153
This time it was a tapered roller bearing, so I used the Kawasaki OEM special tool. Using a chisel to tap is a last resort!
You want to remove and install the bearing as smoothly and efficiently as possible. I usually remove the rolling elements and pull using the upper rib.
Most things come out without trouble that way. I think the more special tools you have, the safer your work becomes.
You can remove it easily by tightening it this way. Rather than tightening all at once, you apply tension, back off, apply tension, back off repeatedly. Of course, make a pad on the stem side so you don’t damage it.
It’s been a while since I’ve seen bearings this bad.
It’s been a while since I’ve seen a bike with damage this deep. I mean, they were actually riding it like this…
The handling should become significantly healthier and more fun.
Beautiful at the component level. Work with restoration in mind.
This one is on the free plan, so the finish is “bamboo.”
As you work on it like this, the machine gradually gets more polished as each component becomes cleaner. And when parts are clean, the work itself progresses much more pleasantly.
I’m a fan of hydraulic pressing for the frame-side race.
It takes a bit of practice, but hydraulic pressing is incredibly easy once you get the hang of it.
You know those OEM special tools where you tighten nuts from above and below? Think of this as the hydraulic version.
That said, if you suddenly start pressing hard with hydraulics, it’s dangerous, so you set a standard and start with gentle taps, then gradually increase to firm pressure.
I’m sure it’s fine, but it’s best to do a final visual check anyway. Check first, check second, skip three and four, and check fifth.
We use ball bearings with a retainer.
Honestly, tapered roller bearings aren’t that different. The reason I prefer retainer-equipped ball bearings is “maintenance is easier.” That’s really the only reason. Though I do think they’re slightly more durable.
Bearing cleaning and greasing is just so much easier, isn’t it? With tapered rollers, there’s a lot more work from washing to drying to greasing.
Here we go again with special tools.
I’m not sure if they still sell this, but it’s a really handy item. Being able to tighten straight down from above is incredibly efficient. Once you use this kind of socket wrench, you can’t go back to a hook wrench.
ポチップ
